Beginners Guides Archives -

Dialed In: Mastering Air Rifle Scopes for Precision Shooting

Whether you’re chasing tighter groups at 50 yards or picking off rats around a barn at dusk, there’s a moment in every airgunner’s journey when the gear starts to matter — not because it’s flashy, but because it solves problems. Chief among those tools is your air rifle scope.

For experienced shooters, air rifle scopes are more than just aiming devices. They’re precision instruments that, when understood and applied correctly, remove layers of uncertainty. But that only happens when you truly grasp features like parallax adjustment, turret tracking, focal planes, and reticle design — and how those translate into real-world results.

Let’s break it all down, not in abstract terms, but in a way that makes sense when you’re in the field, behind the trigger, with limited time to make the shot count.

Zoom Range & Objective Lens Size: Utility Over Ego

High magnification and oversized objective lenses sound great in theory, but when it comes to air rifle scopes, too much of either can backfire.

Scopes with zoom ranges like 6–24x or 8–32x offer great precision — in ideal conditions. But they also limit your field of view, require steadier setups, and add weight. That extra weight can shift your rifle’s balance point, making off-hand or improvised shots less stable. Massive objective lenses (like 50mm or 56mm) often force you to raise the scope higher on the rail, affecting cheek weld and alignment.

I once mounted a 6–24×50 scope for twilight rabbit control, assuming the light-gathering capabilities would be a huge help. Instead, I struggled. The narrow field of view made target acquisition slow, and the extra heft threw off my shooting rhythm. Swapping it out for a more compact 3–12×44 air rifle scope immediately improved my control and accuracy.

For most airgun tasks, a 3–12x or 4–16x zoom with a 40–44mm objective strikes a perfect balance. It delivers clarity, light transmission, and manageable handling — exactly what you want from an air rifle scope used in dynamic shooting scenarios.

First Focal Plane (FFP) vs Second Focal Plane (SFP)

If you’re trying to decide between first or second focal plane in your next air rifle scope, the decision often comes down to how you shoot.

First focal plane (FFP) reticles scale with magnification, meaning your holdovers remain accurate no matter the zoom level. That’s particularly valuable in pest control or hunting scenarios where you’re adjusting zoom on the fly but still need ballistic precision.

I saw the benefits of FFP firsthand while dealing with grey squirrels on a property with varied terrain. One moment I was at 20 yards, the next I was shooting up into trees at nearly 50. With an FFP air rifle scope, I didn’t have to rethink my holdovers when I changed zoom levels — I could react, adjust, and shoot with confidence. My 1.2 mil drop at 40 yards was consistent at any magnification.

In contrast, second focal plane (SFP) reticles stay the same visual size, but only provide accurate holdovers at a set magnification (usually max zoom). That’s fine for static targets but more limiting when range and magnification shift frequently.

If you do a mix of target shooting and fieldwork, FFP air rifle scopes give you flexibility and speed. SFP models still have a place, particularly if you shoot at one distance and one magnification. But for versatility, FFP is king.

Parallax Adjustment: The Often-Ignored Accuracy Killer

Parallax error is one of the biggest causes of missed shots, and for air rifle scopes, it’s even more critical due to the shorter ranges we typically shoot at.

Parallax happens when the reticle and target image aren’t on the same focal plane. If your eye shifts position, the crosshairs appear to move across the target. That movement can throw your shot off, even if your fundamentals are perfect.

With air rifles often used at distances between 10 and 50 yards, adjustable parallax isn’t optional — it’s essential. A good air rifle scope will feature either a side focus knob or adjustable objective (AO) so you can dial in the exact range and eliminate this error.

At a local benchrest match, I was surprised when my tight 25-yard groups suddenly opened up. The culprit? I had left the parallax set for 50 yards after a pest control session. Once I readjusted to the proper distance, the crosshair settled, and my groups tightened again. It was a textbook reminder of how critical parallax is to consistency.

If your air rifle scope doesn’t allow parallax adjustment down to at least 10 yards, it’s not giving you the precision tools you need — especially for target work or indoor shooting.

Reticle Design: The Ballistic Bridge Between Brain and Barrel

The right reticle can make a massive difference in your shooting speed, accuracy, and confidence. Modern air rifle scopes often include holdover reticles designed specifically with pellet ballistics in mind — think mildot, half-mil hash, or Christmas tree styles.

These designs give you clear visual references for elevation and windage, reducing your reliance on guesswork. The key is finding a reticle that balances information with clarity. Too few markings, and you’re blind. Too many, and you waste time deciphering under pressure.

Switching to a half-mil reticle gave me a huge boost in consistency. I have had to make quick adjustments for wind and distance, ranging from 25 to 45 yards that thanks to my reticle’s detailed holdovers, I could adjust for a 1.5 mil drop and half-mil wind push without ever touching the turrets. That’s the kind of performance only a well-designed air rifle scope can deliver.

Don’t skimp on reticle quality. It’s where your decision-making happens in real time.

Turrets: The Precision Dials You Should Actually Use

In the past, many airgun shooters treated turrets as a “set it and forget it” feature. But modern air rifle scopes often include tactical-style turrets for a reason — they’re meant to be used.

Reliable turrets track true, click clearly, and let you dial for elevation or windage with confidence. Whether you’re shooting slugs, switching pellet weights, or dialling for wind, turrets give you precision that holdovers alone can’t always provide.

I run semi-regular box tests on my scopes — shooting a square group pattern by adjusting turrets up, over, down, and back — to ensure that the turrets return to zero and track accurately. When I switch to a heavier pellet for long-range crow control, I can confidently dial 1.1 mils of elevation, take the shot, then return to zero without losing POI.

Look for air rifle scopes with features like zero stop, locking turrets, and clear markings in your preferred unit (MOA or MIL). These may seem like premium features, but they offer a noticeable edge in real-world shooting.

Air Rifle Scopes setup — HW100 FT set up

Final Comparison: Matching Features to the Task

Feature	Target Shooting	Pest Control	Field Versatility
First Focal Plane	Excellent	Useful	Best for varied ranges
Adjustable Parallax	Essential	Critical	Non-negotiable
Holdover Reticle	Ideal	Practical	Everyday tool
Precision Turrets	Necessary	Useful at range	Best with return-to-zero
Moderate Zoom (3–16x)	Perfect	Ideal	Balanced

Final Thoughts: Know Your Scope, Own Your Shot

Your rifle may be laser-accurate, but if your air rifle scope isn’t set up properly — or worse, if you don’t understand how to use it — you’re leaving performance on the table.

Air rifle scopes aren’t just about magnification or aesthetics. They’re tools for solving problems, making fast decisions, and executing precise shots. Whether it’s dialing parallax to eliminate error, trusting an FFP reticle at any magnification, or confidently clicking turrets for long-range elevation, understanding your scope unlocks another level of shooting.

Don’t just invest in better glass. Invest in understanding it.

Because when the shot matters — whether it’s paper, pest, or personal challenge — your air rifle scope is your edge.

How to Fill a PCP Airgun: Pump, Bottle or Compressor? A Beginner’s Guide

If you’re new to the world of PCP (pre-charged pneumatic) air rifles, one of your first practical tasks will be figuring out how to keep your rifle filled with air. After all, no air means no shooting.

There are a few ways to charge your airgun, each with its pros, cons, and quirks. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of filling your PCP air rifle using a stirrup pump, a charging cylinder (also known as a bottle or tank), and touch briefly on airgun compressors. Don’t worry—we’ll keep it simple, beginner-friendly, and practical.

Option 1: The Stirrup Pump (a.k.a. The Budget Workout)

A stirrup pump is essentially a heavy-duty, high-pressure version of a bicycle pump—built to handle the much higher air pressures required by PCP air rifles. Unlike a regular tire pump, which might top out at around 100 PSI (7 bar), a stirrup pump for airguns is designed to safely compress air up to 200–300 bar (that’s 2900 to 4350 PSI)

It’s a tall, upright pump that you operate by hand, using a vertical push-and-pull motion—just like a classic floor bike pump. But because of the extreme pressures involved, it’s built with reinforced seals, a sturdy chamber, and often includes moisture filters to help remove water vapor from the air. Many models also include a built-in pressure gauge so you can see exactly how much air you’re pushing into your rifle.

In short, the stirrup pump is a manual but reliable way to charge your air rifle without the need for electricity, dive shops, or compressors. It’s the simplest entry point into PCP shooting—though it does take a bit of muscle.

Mk 5 PRO Hill Air Pump with Patented Dry Pac System — Hills MK5 Air Rifle Pump

How It Works:

Connect the pump to your airgun with a fill line.
Pump up and down (a lot).
Watch the pressure gauge until you reach your rifle’s recommended fill pressure (typically around 200-250 bar).
Open the bleed valve gently – This releases any residual pressure in the hose before disconnection.
Disconnect the hose and fill probe carefully

Pros:

Budget-friendly: No need for expensive equipment.
Portable and self-sufficient: No need to visit a dive shop or rely on electricity.

Cons:

It’s a workout: Filling from empty can take a lot of effort, especially as pressure builds.
Not great for regular use or larger air cylinders.
Moisture risk: Cheaper pumps may lack built-in filters, which can allow water vapor into your rifle.

Best For:

Beginners on a budget, or those with a light-use airgun and a good set of lungs.

Option 2: Charging Cylinders (Air Bottles)

A charging cylinder is a portable tank filled with compressed air—like the kind divers use. It connects to your PCP rifle and quickly fills it up.

Available in sizes like 3L, 7L, and 12L, larger cylinders provide more refills before needing to be topped up at a dive shop. Some smaller ones are compact enough to take on a shooting trip.

How It Works:

Attach your rifle’s fill probe first (to avoid strain), then connect the cylinder’s air fill line using the quick coupler.
Lay the cylinder on its side during filling to prevent damage.
Close the bleed valve gently.
Open the main valve slowly—watch the pressure rise.
Stop once you hit your rifle’s fill pressure, then open the bleed valve to release residual pressure before disconnecting.

Pros:

Fast and effortless: Fill your rifle in seconds.
Convenient for regular shooters.
Available in various sizes (from compact 3L to hefty 12L tanks).
Can get many fills out of one cylinder.

Cons:

Needs refilling at a dive shop when pressure gets too low.
Initial cost is higher than a pump.
Steel cylinders are heavy and require testing every 5 years; carbon-fibre ones are lighter but more expensive and may need testing more often.

Pro Tips:

Go high pressure: A cylinder that fills up to 300 bar will give you more fills per trip.
Get the right hose: Red-shrouded fill lines are more durable than the black ones.
Longer hoses give you more flexibility when filling—just avoid kinks or tight bends.

Best For:

Shooters who use their rifle often, or don’t fancy a mini cardio session every time they top up.

What About Compressors?

A compressor for PCP air rifles is a specialized machine that compresses and delivers high-pressure air, either directly into your rifle or into a charging cylinder. Unlike a hand pump or a pre-filled bottle, a compressor gives you total independence—you can refill your airgun or cylinder right at home, without trips to the dive shop.

There are two main types: portable compressors that fill your rifle directly, and larger, more powerful units that can also fill air bottles. These. Some models require water or oil cooling, while others are simpler plug-and-play systems.

Wulf LCD 4500 PSI Airgun Compressor - A. Branthwaite Gunsmiths — WULF LCD 4500 PSI PCP Compressor

Why It’s Cool:

Complete independence—no dive shop runs.
Ideal for high-volume shooters or clubs.

Why It’s Not For Everyone:

Expensive up front.
Can be loud and require maintenance.
Not always beginner-friendly—check specs and user reviews carefully.

If you’re curious, we’ve got a whole guide on choosing the right airgun compressor (coming soon!).

Safety First

Whether you’re using a pump or a bottle, always fill slowly. Rushing air into your rifle can damage seals or valves—even if your equipment has a built-in restrictor. Don’t overfill beyond your rifle’s rated pressure; more air doesn’t mean more shots and could do more harm than good.

Also:

Lay your charging cylinder down when filling.
Keep the fill line as straight as possible.
Always open and close valves gently.
Clean and protect the DIN valve with a dust plug (or at least masking tape) during transport.

And don’t forget—cylinders need regular testing to stay certified for use. A dive shop will refuse to fill anything past its inspection date.

Which Should You Choose?

Method	Cost	Effort	Portability	Convenience	Ideal For
Stirrup Pump	Low	High	High	Low	Beginners on a budget
Air Bottle	Medium	Low	Medium	High	Regular shooters
Compressor	High	Low	Low	Very High	Clubs, tinkerers, pros

Final Thoughts

Filling your PCP air rifle doesn’t have to be complicated. If you’re just starting out, a stirrup pump can be a fine entry point—just know what you’re getting into. For most shooters, a charging cylinder strikes a great balance between ease and practicality. And if you’re going all-in, a compressor might be worth the investment.

Whatever you choose, remember: fill slowly, stay safe, and happy shooting!

What is a PCP Airgun? Here’s What You Should Know…

If you’ve been happily plinking away with your trusty springer or CO₂ air rifle, but now you’re hearing the siren song of PCP airguns, you’re not alone. Pre-Charged Pneumatic (PCP) airguns have surged in popularity among both target shooters and hunters — and for good reason. They offer a serious upgrade in power, precision, and shooting experience.

But making the leap to PCP isn’t just about throwing money at fancier gear — it’s about understanding what you gain, what you’ll need to consider, and how it changes your relationship with shooting. So, whether you’re a backyard marksman, a competition hopeful, or a hunter eyeing your next quarry, here’s what you need to know before making the switch.

PCP Airguns are a popular choice amongst serious airgunners

What Is a PCP Airgun, Anyway?

PCP stands for Pre-Charged Pneumatic — which may sound like something out of a steampunk novel, but it’s actually a modern, efficient airgun technology based on a very simple principle: using compressed air to fire a pellet with precision and consistency.

Let’s break it down.

💨 The Basic Concept

At the heart of a PCP airgun is a high-pressure air reservoir, usually located beneath the barrel or built into the stock. This reservoir is filled with clean, dry air — typically to pressures between 180 and 250 bar (that’s around 2,600 to 3,600 PSI). For context, that’s far more pressure than you’d get from a bicycle pump or a car tyre — so you’ll need special equipment to fill it (we’ll get to that later).

When you pull the trigger, a precisely metered burst of this compressed air is released behind the pellet. This sudden expansion of air pushes the pellet down the barrel and out toward your target — all in a smooth, controlled motion.

⚙️ How the Mechanism Works (Step-by-Step)

Filling the Air Reservoir
Before shooting, the air reservoir (also called an air cylinder) is filled using:
- A hand pump (takes effort but gets the job done)
- A scuba tank (quick and convenient)
- Or a dedicated air compressor (the most hassle-free but also the priciest)
The Firing Cycle
Inside the rifle, there’s a firing valve and a hammer mechanism. Here’s what happens when you pull the trigger:
- The hammer is released and strikes the firing valve.
- The valve briefly opens, releasing a carefully controlled puff of high-pressure air from the reservoir.
- This air pushes the pellet through the barrel at high speed — often over 800 to 1,000 feet per second depending on the rifle and pellet.
Regulation and Power Control
Many higher-end PCP rifles include a regulator — a device that sits between the reservoir and the firing valve. It ensures each shot receives the same amount of air, regardless of how full or empty the reservoir is. That means:
- Consistent velocity
- Tighter shot groups
- Greater efficiency (more shots per fill)
The Magazine and Multi-Shot Systems
Unlike single-shot springers, many PCPs use rotary magazines or side-lever actions to load the next pellet automatically or semi-automatically. This allows for fast follow-up shots and less manual loading, especially helpful during hunting or timed target shooting.

🔄 Comparing PCP to Spring and CO₂ Systems

Feature	PCP Airgun	Spring-Piston	CO₂ Airgun
Power Source	Compressed air	Mechanical spring	CO₂ gas cartridge
Recoil	None	Moderate to heavy	Light
Power Consistency	High	Varies with spring fatigue	Affected by temperature
Follow-up Shots	Fast with magazine	Slow (manual reload)	Fast with magazine
Filling	Pump/Tank/Compressor	No fill required	New cartridges needed
Cold Weather Performance	Good	Good	Poor (gas pressure drops)

🔧 What Makes PCP Different — and Better? Here’s where PCPs really shine: power consistency.

Spring and CO₂ rifles often suffer from velocity variations between shots. With CO₂, temperature plays a big role — a chilly morning can sap your power. With springers, the mechanical movement can lead to slight inconsistencies. PCP airguns, on the other hand, deliver remarkably stable power from shot to shot.

Why should you care? Because power consistency directly affects your shot placement.

Tighter shot groups: Less velocity variation means your pellets will land in a more predictable pattern.
Better confidence: When every shot behaves like the last one, you can trust your aim.
Fewer flyers: That one random pellet that sails high or low? Much less likely.

Whether you’re shooting from a bench or stalking rabbits, the difference is noticeable.

Low Recoil = High Comfort + Quick Follow-Ups

Ever flinched just before squeezing the trigger on a springer? Yeah, that’s recoil anticipation. It’s a real thing — and it can wreck your accuracy.

One of the biggest quality-of-life upgrades with a PCP airgun is the complete lack of recoil. With no spring snapping forward or gas expanding violently, shooting becomes smoother and more intuitive.

And because your sight picture doesn’t get thrown off with each shot:

You can stay locked on target.
You’re able to fire follow-up shots faster and more accurately.
You don’t fatigue as quickly, which is a huge plus during long sessions.

Target shooters love this for obvious reasons, but hunters benefit too — especially when you need that second shot before your quarry bolts.

Multi-Shot Capability: More Pellets, Less Fuss

If you’re used to single-shot springers, this one’s a game-changer.

Many PCP airguns come with rotary magazines or multi-shot mechanisms, letting you load 10 or more pellets at once. That means:

Fewer reload interruptions
More time shooting
Faster reactions when it counts

Whether you’re in the middle of a friendly competition or lining up shots in the field, this convenience makes a noticeable difference.

All-Weather Reliability

Let’s talk about environmental performance, particularly if you’re coming from CO₂.

CO₂ airguns are infamously temperature-sensitive. Cold weather causes the gas to contract and lose pressure, leading to lower velocities and frustrating inconsistencies.

PCP rifles? Unaffected by temperature. The compressed air in the tank remains stable whether you’re shooting in summer heat or winter frost. That makes PCPs the go-to choice for all-season shooters who demand reliable results in any environment.

But Wait — What’s the Catch?

Okay, so if PCPs are so amazing, why doesn’t everyone use them?

Well, a few things to consider:

1. The Initial Investment

The rifles themselves are pricier than most springers or CO₂ guns.
You’ll also need a way to fill them: hand pump, scuba tank, or electric compressor. That’s another upfront cost, though many consider it a one-time purchase.

2. Maintenance and Safety

PCP airguns operate at high pressures (up to 250+ bar), so you’ll need to learn a bit about safe handling and air cylinder care.
They’re not hard to maintain, but you do need to be mindful.

3. Filling Can Be a Workout (or an Expense)

Hand pumps can be tiring — think “small cardio session.”
Compressors or tanks make life easier, but they add to the cost.

Still, for most users, the benefits far outweigh these minor hurdles.

PCP Cylinder — Most pcp rifles have an air cylinder located under the barrel.

So, Should You Make the Leap?

If you’re someone who:

Values precision and consistency,
Wants the ability to take rapid, accurate follow-up shots,
Plans to shoot regularly — in any weather,
Enjoys convenience and performance in equal measure…

…then a PCP airgun isn’t just an upgrade. It’s a whole new level of shooting.

Final Thoughts: The Airgun of the Serious Shooter

Pre-Charged Pneumatic air rifles offer more than just flashy features — they deliver a shooting experience built around control, comfort, and confidence. With stable power, no recoil, multiple shots per fill, and reliable performance in any condition, it’s no wonder serious shooters are making the switch.

Sure, the entry price is a little higher, and there’s some gear to think about. But once you’ve had your first session with a PCP, you’ll probably never look back.

Whether you’re chasing tighter groups, quicker follow-ups, or simply a more refined experience behind the trigger, a PCP airgun might just be your next best decision.

Trail Blazing Tech: Getting to Grips with the HIKMICRO M15 Trail Camera

Whether you’re monitoring wildlife, scouting hunting spots, or keeping an eye on the back forty, a reliable trail camera is your best silent partner in the field. The HIKMICRO M15 isn’t just another set-it-and-forget-it cam—it’s a powerful, no-nonsense 4G-enabled scout with features that would make even the most seasoned outdoorsperson nod in approval.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through what makes the HIKMICRO M15 a solid choice, how to set it up properly, and how to make the most of its tech-savvy features—because whether it’s a prowling fox or a nosy badger, you want the shot before it disappears into the underbrush.

Why Use a Trail Camera Anyway?

Trail cameras have come a long way from grainy nighttime blobs and SD card roulette. Today, they serve a wide range of users:

Hunters looking to track game movement patterns.
Wildlife enthusiasts who enjoy observing animals in their natural habitat.
Landowners and farmers monitoring property or checking for trespassers.
Researchers gathering long-term wildlife data without disturbing their subjects.

With the M15, you get more than passive image capture—you get actionable insights, often delivered to your smartphone before the mud on the trail’s even dried.

With up to 10MP image and 1080P video resolution, it can take true living colour photos or video clips during the day and super clear B&W images or video clips at night with 940nm invisible IR LEDs.

Meet the M15: Built for the Wild, Backed by 4G

The HIKMICRO M15 is the kind of device that earns its keep. Here’s what it brings to the (woodland) table:

Crystal-clear visuals: 10MP images and 1080p video with audio—true-to-life colour by day, sharp black-and-white by night.
Blazing-fast trigger speed: 0.5 seconds. Blink and you’ll miss it—but the M15 won’t.
Invisible night vision: 940nm IR LEDs won’t spook your subject.
25m detection range with a 45° angle: That’s a lot of coverage for a single camera.
Rugged design: IP66-rated for dust and water, it’s ready for rain, snow, and the odd squirrel nibble.

But where the M15 really flexes is its 4G connectivity, allowing real-time photo delivery and remote access. Welcome to the 21st century of scouting.

The camera detects movement at an angle of 45 degrees and has a range of 25 meter (82 ft), which means that it can cover a width of 20 meters at a distance of 25 meters.

First Steps: Setting Up Your M15

Before you start catching critters on camera, you’ll need to do a bit of prep. But don’t worry—it’s less “tech support” and more “tweak and go.”

What’s in the Box?

You’ll find:

The M15 camera
Antenna
SIM card (network dependent)
USB cable
Quick start guide
Installation strap

You’ll need to add: 6 or 12 standard AA batteries (not included), and a microSD card.

💡 Pro tip: Using lithium AA batteries ensures longer life and better cold-weather performance.

Mounting

Mount using the strap or the 1/4″-20 UNC thread (perfect for tripods or mounts). Position the camera about 3–4 feet off the ground, angled slightly down, and pointing north or south to avoid glare.

Powering Up and Going Mobile

Once it’s mounted and powered up, the real fun begins—app time.

Download the HIKMICRO Sight App

Available for iOS and Android, this app is your control centre. Here’s what you can do:

Check signal strength and battery life
Change capture settings remotely
Schedule uploads or get them in real time
Organise media by date or type
See GPS location and monitor storage space

It’s like your trail camera got an upgrade and went to university.

Setting Up 4G Connectivity

Insert your SIM card and follow these steps:

Connect to the camera via the HIKMICRO Sight app.
Navigate to network settings.
Enter your APN details (check with your mobile provider).
Enable 4G transmission.
Choose your preferred delivery schedule: real-time or scheduled uploads.

And just like that—you’re getting pictures of deer before they’ve even decided which tree to scratch.

Dialling in the Details

Here are the key features you can tweak in the app:

Capture mode: Photo, video, or both
Resolution settings: Adjust to save memory or max out for detail
Trigger interval: Control how often the camera reacts to movement
Burst mode: Take multiple shots per trigger
Time-lapse: Great for documenting habitat or weather changes

Every option is clearly laid out in the app, making customization intuitive—even if you’ve never used a connected trail cam before.

Why the M15? Let’s Sum It Up

Still deciding? Here’s why the HIKMICRO M15 stands out:

Unrivalled convenience with app control and real-time updates
Fast, reliable performance in the field
Solid build quality that can handle whatever nature throws at it
Comprehensive status updates (from temperature to data usage)

Whether you’re surveying red deer in the Highlands or checking for garden invaders, this is the trail camera that keeps you connected—no matter where you are.

The M15 trail camera can be triggered within 0.5 seconds by the movement of animals with a highly sensitive Passive Infrared motion sensor (PIR).

Final Thoughts: Nature, Now in Real Time

With the M15, you’re not just collecting data—you’re staying informed. The ability to manage your camera from miles away, review footage by time and category, and receive media directly to your phone gives you control that once required days of trekking and swapping memory cards.

And that? That’s efficiency that even Mother Nature would respect.

Now go on—set it, sync it, and let the M15 show you what’s really lurking in the underbrush.

Explore more of our wildlife tech range at Pellpax!

Can I Shoot Pigeons in My Garden?

Ah, pigeons. Some people feed them in town squares. Others wish they’d stop treating their garden furniture like a public restroom. If you’re here, chances are you’ve got a few too many feathered guests and are wondering, “Can I shoot pigeons in my garden?”

The answer? Yes — but only if you follow the rules. And trust us, there are a few!

First, a Word from Our Friends at DEFRA

Let’s get serious for a moment. The Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) governs this birdy business under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. This law protects wild birds — yes, even the scruffy ones nesting in your loft — and makes it illegal to harm or kill them without a valid reason and the right licence.

So no, you can’t just go full cowboy in the back garden.

What Counts as a “Valid Reason”?

You’re only allowed to shoot certain pigeons under specific licences, and only when:

You’re protecting crops or livestock.
You’re preventing the spread of disease.
You’ve tried non-lethal methods and they didn’t work.

And here’s the kicker: you don’t need to apply for these licences, but you do need to follow them to the letter. If the police come knocking, you’d better be able to prove you were operating within the law.

The Licences – Legal Pigeon Control in the UK

Depending on where you are in the UK and the type of pigeon you’re dealing with, different licences apply. Here’s a quick cheat sheet:

Pigeon Type	England	Scotland	Wales	Northern Ireland
Feral	GL41, GL42	GL02, GL03	GL001, GL002	TPG1, TPG2
Woodpigeon	GL42	GL02	GL001	TPG2

Important: Some licences (like GL41) only cover feral pigeons. So before you go all Rambo in the rhododendrons, make sure you’ve ID’d your bird.

So… What Is the Difference Between Feral and Wood Pigeons?

Glad you asked.

Feral Pigeons: City slickers. Often found loitering near kebab shops. They’re smart (they remember the people who feed them!) and dirty. Feral pigeons love abandoned buildings, can carry disease, and breed like it’s their job.
Wood Pigeons: Country cousins. Chunkier. Prefer berries to bin scraps. Wood pigeons love gardens, woods, and fields — and are easier on the eye with their pinkish breasts and white wing patches.

The wood pigeon is easily identifiable by its purple / pink coloured breast

Can I Shoot Pigeons with an Air Rifle?

Yes — if you follow the law very carefully.

Air rifles are commonly used for pest control in the UK, including for pigeons, but they come with a strict set of rules and responsibilities.

📜 Legal Basics for Airguns in the UK

England & Wales:

You do not need a licence to own or use an air rifle that falls below certain power thresholds.
The maximum legal power for an unlicensed air rifle is:
- 12 ft/lbs (foot-pounds of energy) for rifles.
- 6 ft/lbs for air pistols.
Anything more powerful than that is considered a firearm and requires a Firearm Certificate (FAC).

Scotland:

All airguns, regardless of power, require an Air Weapon Certificate under the Air Weapons and Licensing (Scotland) Act 2015.

Northern Ireland:

All air rifles are classed as firearms and require a firearms licence.

🛡️ Safe Practices for Airgun Use

Even with a legal air rifle, you still need to shoot safely and responsibly:

Only shoot on private land where you have explicit permission.
Always ensure a safe backstop — you need to stop the pellet if you miss. Think soil mounds, thick wood, or purpose-built pellet traps.
Never shoot near public footpaths, roads, or houses.
Use an appropriate calibre — .177 or .22 pellets are common for pest control.
Be mindful of noise, ricochet, and especially the presence of other people, pets, or property.
Keep your airgun secure and never carry it openly in public — that’s illegal and likely to get you a very quick visit from the police.

✅ Legal Checklist Before Shooting a Pigeon

Do I know what species it is?
Am I using the correct General Licence for this situation?
Have I tried non-lethal methods first?
Is my air rifle under the legal power limit (or do I have the correct licence if not)?
Am I on private land with permission to shoot?
Do I have a safe shooting environment and backstop?

If you can’t tick all those boxes, put the gun away and consider other options — or call in the pros.

Do I Have to Shoot Them?

Nope! In fact, DEFRA and Natural England really want you to try non-lethal options first. Things like:

Removing food or water sources
Installing bird spikes or netting
Using motion-activated lights or sound deterrents
Sealing entry points to lofts and buildings

Not only are these methods often enough to do the trick — they also help keep you on the right side of the law.

Pigeons love hanging out amongst garden weeds.

In Conclusion…

Yes, you can shoot pigeons in your garden — but only under the right conditions. You need to:

✅ Identify the pigeon species
✅ Follow the correct General Licence
✅ Try non-lethal methods first
✅ Use a legal air rifle within power limits
✅ Shoot safely and responsibly on private land

So before you channel your inner sharpshooter, make sure you’re fully briefed. If you are interest in shopping pest control solutions, check out our Online Airgun Store.

What can I shoot? – A Beginner’s Guide to UK Pest Control

If you’ve recently picked up an air rifle and are keen to try your hand at pest control, you’re in good company. Many shooters in the UK use air rifles for managing small pests, keeping populations under control while respecting the environment and wildlife. In this guide, we’ll explore what pests you can legally shoot with a sub-12 ft/lb air rifle (no licence required), how to lure them in, and how to dispatch them humanely.

What Can You Legally Shoot?

The UK has strict wildlife laws, so it’s crucial to know which species are fair game. The general rule is that only certain pests—those considered harmful to agriculture, property, or native wildlife—can be legally controlled. Here’s a breakdown of the main targets:

1. Grey Squirrels (Sciurus Carolinensis)

Identification: Grey fur with a white underbelly, bushy tail, and larger size compared to native red squirrels. Typically found in woodlands, parks, and gardens.
Why Shoot Them? Grey squirrels are an invasive species that outcompete native red squirrels. They also cause damage to trees and can be a nuisance in gardens and lofts.
Baiting & Luring: Peanuts and sunflower seeds work well. A simple bait station can encourage them into a safe shooting zone.
Humane Dispatch: A headshot is essential for an instant, humane kill. Aim for the brain just behind the eye.

2. Rabbits (Oryctolagus Cuniculus)

Identification: Small to medium-sized mammals with long ears, powerful hind legs, and brown-grey fur. Often found in open fields and woodland edges.
Why Shoot Them? Rabbits breed rapidly and can cause serious damage to crops and gardens.
Baiting & Luring: Natural grazing spots are best. Normally bait isn’t required but if you must bait, fresh vegetables or hay can work.
Humane Dispatch: A clean headshot or a heart-lung shot is recommended. Avoid shooting from angles that may lead to wounding.

3. Rats (Rattus Norvegicus)

Identification: Brown or grey fur, scaly tail, and a pointed snout. Typically found around buildings, farms, and waterways.
Why Shoot Them? Rats spread disease, damage property, and compete with native species.
Baiting & Luring: Peanut butter, bacon grease, or grain-based baits can attract them into a shooting zone.
Humane Dispatch: A shot to the head ensures a quick and humane kill. Be mindful of backstops as rats are often near buildings.

4. Corvids (Crows, Magpies, and Jackdaws)

Identification:
- Crows: Large black birds with an intelligent and cautious nature.
- Magpies: Black and white plumage with a long tail and a chattering call.
- Jackdaws: Smaller than crows with grey heads and pale blue eyes.
Why Shoot Them? Corvids predate on songbird nests and can be aggressive around livestock.
Baiting & Luring: Decoys and calls work best. Be aware, corvids are very smart and cannot be tricked easily.
Humane Dispatch: A head or chest shot will drop them effectively. Be aware of legal restrictions—make sure you have permission to control them.

5. Woodpigeons (Columba Palumbus)

Identification: Large grey bird with a distinctive white neck patch and white wing bars visible in flight.
Why Shoot Them? They are a major agricultural pest, causing extensive damage to crops.
Baiting & Luring: Decoying is very effective. Scatter grain or use pigeon decoys in a known feeding area.
Humane Dispatch: A headshot is ideal, but a well-placed chest shot will also work.

6. Feral Pigeons (Columba Livia Domestica)

Identification: Variable plumage but often blue-grey with iridescent neck feathers. Found in urban areas and farm buildings.
Why Shoot Them? Feral pigeons are often seen as pests in urban areas, where they spread disease and cause damage to buildings.
Baiting & Luring: Similar to woodpigeons—grain or decoys work well.
Humane Dispatch: Again, head or chest shots are the most effective.

Techniques for a Successful and Ethical Hunt

Now that we know what we can legally shoot, let’s look at some effective methods to ensure an ethical and efficient pest control session.

1. Choosing the Right Pellets

For a sub-12 ft/lb air rifle, domed or hollow-point pellets are the best choice. They provide accuracy and enough stopping power for a humane kill.

2. Using the Right Scope

A good-quality scope will help with shot placement, especially for smaller targets. A 3-9×40 or similar magnification is a great all-round option.

3. Shooting from a Rested Position

Accuracy is key to humane pest control. Using a bipod or shooting sticks can improve your stability and shot consistency.

4. Understanding Shooting Ranges

A sub-12 ft/lb air rifle is most effective within 30-40 yards. Beyond this, accuracy and pellet energy drop significantly. Know your limits!

5. Checking Your Shot Placement

Always aim for a clean kill. If an animal is wounded, a follow-up shot should be taken immediately to dispatch it humanely.

6. Legal Considerations

You must have permission from the landowner to shoot on private land.
Avoid shooting near roads or public footpaths.
Always follow UK airgun laws, including safe transportation and storage of your rifle.
If shooting birds, make sure you comply with the General Licence regulations from Natural England or your local wildlife authority.

Final Thoughts

Pest control with air rifles can be a rewarding and responsible activity if done ethically and legally. Always prioritise humane kills, know your quarry, and respect the land you shoot on. By following the tips in this guide, you’ll improve your skills while helping to manage pest populations effectively.

Remember, airgun hunting is a skill that takes time to master. Practicing on paper targets before taking live shots ensures that you can consistently place accurate and humane shots. Always check local regulations before heading out, and if you’re new to the sport, consider joining an airgun club to meet experienced shooters who can provide valuable advice.

Additionally, pest control should always be conducted with respect for nature. While these animals may be pests, they still deserve to be treated with dignity. If you hunt, do so with a purpose—whether it’s protecting crops, managing populations, or sourcing sustainable food. Ethical shooting is not just about making the shot but also about knowing when not to take one.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Do I need a licence for a sub-12 ft/lb air rifle?

A: No, in the UK, you do not need a licence to own and use an air rifle that produces under 12 ft/lb of muzzle energy. However, you must still comply with all airgun laws, including shooting only on land where you have permission and ensuring safe storage. If you own an air pistol under 6 ft/lb, similar rules apply. For any rifle exceeding 12 ft/lb, you must apply for a Firearm Certificate (FAC), which has much stricter regulations.

Q: Can I shoot in my garden?

A: Yes, you can legally shoot in your own garden, but strict rules apply. You must ensure that pellets do not leave your property boundary, as this is considered an offence. Additionally, you must ensure that your shooting does not endanger anyone or cause unnecessary distress. A suitable backstop, such as a thick wooden board or pellet trap, is essential to prevent ricochets or stray shots from leaving your garden.

Q: What is the best calibre for pest control?

A: Both .177 and .22 calibres are effective for pest control, but they have different advantages. .177 has a flatter trajectory and higher velocity, making it easier to shoot accurately at longer distances. .22, on the other hand, delivers more impact energy, which can be beneficial for dispatching pests more effectively. Ultimately, shot placement is more important than calibre—either will work if you can consistently make accurate, humane shots.

Q: Is there a best time of day for pest control?

A: Yes, different pests are more active at specific times. Grey squirrels and rabbits are most active during early morning and late afternoon, while rats are more commonly seen at night. Woodpigeons and corvids tend to move during the day, especially around feeding times. Choosing the right time to shoot will improve your chances of success and ensure that you are not disturbing other wildlife unnecessarily.

Q: What happens if I wound an animal?

A: Wounding an animal is an unfortunate reality that can happen, even to experienced shooters. If you wound a pest, it is your ethical responsibility to dispatch it as quickly and humanely as possible. Always have a follow-up shot ready and ensure that your marksmanship is practiced regularly to reduce the risk of wounding. If a shot is uncertain, it’s better to wait for a clearer opportunity than to take a risky or rushed shot.

If you want to shop Pest Control kits, check out our webstore

How to Zero a Scope for Your Airgun – A Comprehensive Guide

Learning how to zero a scope is a crucial step in ensuring your airgun is accurate and effective at different ranges. Like firearm shooters, airgunners face challenges such as pellet drop, wind drift, and varying power levels. This guide will take you through the process of zeroing your scope while also covering key features of airgun optics like reticles and focal planes.

Mounting Your Scope Properly

Before zeroing, it’s essential to mount your scope correctly. Start by selecting the appropriate mounts for your rifle—most air rifles use either dovetail or Picatinny rails. Ensure the mounts are secure and aligned properly before placing the scope in the rings. Tighten the screws evenly, one at a time working round the scope, but avoid overtightening. The mount screws want to be touch tight, DO NOT crank them as tight as they will go or you are likely to crush the scope tube, rendering them useless.

Once mounted, position the scope so that you have a clear, full field of view when holding your rifle in a natural shooting position. Adjust the eye relief—the distance between your eye and the scope’s ocular lens—so you don’t experience any dark edges in your sight picture. Finally, ensure the reticle is perfectly level by eye or using a levelling tool. If it needs levelling, loosen the scope mounts slightly and turn the body of the tube until it is perfect.

Ensure your scope is perfectly level before continuing.

Choosing Your Zero Range

When learning how to zero a scope, choosing the correct zero range is crucial due to the arc-like trajectory of pellets. Common zero distances include 10m to 20m, which is ideal for indoor shooting or backyard plinking. A zero of 25m to 30m is a good all-round setting for hunting and target shooting with a standard 12 ft-lbs air rifle, which is the UK legal limit without a firearms certificate, while 35m to 50m is best suited for high-powered airguns shooting at longer distances.

The calibre of your airgun also plays a role in selecting your zero distance. A .177 calibre pellet has a flatter trajectory than a .22 calibre due to its higher velocity and lighter weight, meaning it can maintain accuracy over longer distances with less drop. However, the .22 calibre has more stopping power and is often favoured for hunting, as it retains more energy on impact. What this means is a .177 calibre gun may benefit for a slightly longer zero distance of 30m whereas a .22 is better suited to 25m or under.

Setting Up for Zeroing

To achieve an accurate zero, set up a shooting rest or use sandbags to eliminate movement and stabilize your rifle. Place a paper target at your chosen zero distance, preferably with a grid pattern or bullseye to make adjustments easier. I would also recommend using flathead or wadcutter pellets as they punch clean holes in paper or card making the exact point of impact easy to work out.

If your scope has an adjustable objective (AO) or side focus, set it to match your shooting distance to eliminate parallax error and ensure a crisp image. Also, adjust the magnification to a comfortable level—higher magnification allows for precise adjustments but may exaggerate movement. On UK legal airguns, I find between 4x – 6x to be a sweet spot but your milage may vary.

Shooting and Making Adjustments

Now for the best part of learning how to zero a scope, taking some shots! Aiming at the dead centre of the target, fire five shots to establish a grouping. This step helps identify consistent shot placement rather than adjusting for stray shots caused by shooter error or environmental factors such as wind. Once you have a clear group, retrieve your target and determine how far off your point of impact (POI) is from your point of aim (POA).

A tight grouping, even if off-centre, is more valuable than a loose one. If your shots are landing close together, it means your rifle and scope setup is consistent, and you only need to adjust your turrets to bring the group to the correct point of aim. On the other hand, a scattered group suggests an issue with technique, pellet choice, or equipment stability. Always focus on achieving a small, repeatable cluster before making adjustments to align it with the bullseye.

Use your scope’s turrets to adjust accordingly. The elevation turret moves the POI up or down, while the windage turret moves it left or right. Most scopes adjust in increments such as 1/4 or 1/8 MOA (minute of angle) per click. Continue shooting small groups and making fine adjustments until your POI aligns with your POA.

Understanding Your Scope’s Features

Airgun scopes often come with different reticle styles, focal planes, and adjustable objectives. The adjustable objective (AO) helps eliminate parallax error and allows you to focus sharply at different distances, which is particularly useful for airgunners since we often shoot at closer ranges than firearm users.

An illuminated reticle is great for low-light shooting but I wouldn’t recommend zeroing a scope in low light. First focal plane (FFP) scopes change the reticle size as you adjust magnification, meaning your holdovers remain accurate at any zoom level. Second focal plane (SFP) scopes keep the reticle the same size, meaning the reticle will be fixed at one magnification setting so manual adjustment will be needed when shooting at different zoom settings.

Airgun scope featuring a duplex reticle aiming at a plastic bottle.

Understanding Reticles and Holdovers

Holdover refers to the practice of aiming above your target to compensate for pellet drop at different distances. Since pellets follow a curved trajectory, holding over ensures that your shot lands where intended without needing to adjust the turrets.

For example, if you have zeroed your rifle at 20m and are shooting at a target 30m away, the pellet will have dropped by the time it reaches the target. Instead of adjusting the turret, you can use a mil-dot reticle to aim slightly above the target—perhaps using the first dot below the crosshair—to compensate for the drop. Similarly, if shooting at a closer target than your zero distance, you may need to aim slightly lower.

Different reticles impact how you use your holdovers when learning how to zero a scope. A mil-dot reticle is useful for holdovers at different ranges, as each dot represents a specific adjustment. A duplex reticle offers simple crosshairs, which are best suited for close-range shooting. Understanding how your reticle corresponds to your pellet trajectory allows for more accurate shooting without constantly adjusting your turrets.

Final Checks: Now you know How to Zero a Scope

Once you’re happy with your zero, test your rifle at different distances to understand pellet drop. Take note of how much adjustment is needed for various ranges, and practice using holdovers rather than making constant turret adjustments. This will improve your shooting efficiency and accuracy in real-world scenario

Zeroing your airgun scope correctly is key to accurate shooting, whether for target practice or hunting. By following the step-by-step process of mounting your scope, selecting the right zero range, refining your aim with proper adjustments, and understanding how to compensate for pellet drop using holdovers, you’ll improve both your accuracy and confidence. Happy shooting!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How often should I re-zero my airgun scope?
If you haven’t changed pellets or adjusted your scope, your zero should remain consistent. However, factors like knocks, temperature changes, or recoil from high-powered airguns can shift your zero. It’s a good idea to check it periodically, especially before a hunting trip or competition.

2. Why does my point of impact change at different distances?
Pellets follow a curved trajectory, meaning they rise and fall as they travel.* If your scope is zeroed at a specific range, the pellet’s point of impact will often be high at shorter and lower at longer distances due to gravity and air resistance. You will have to adjust for this when shooting in the field.

3. Why is my scope not holding zero?
This could be due to loose scope mounts, inconsistent shooting technique, or an issue with the scope itself. Check that your mounts are secure, your scope isn’t shifting, and that you’re using quality pellets. If the issue persists, try a different scope or mount system.

4. Can I zero my airgun indoors?
Yes! If you have a safe shooting distance of at least 10m, you can zero your airgun indoors and fine-tune adjustments outdoors at longer ranges. Using an adjustable scope mount can help if you have a limited shooting range indoors.

5. Should I use high or low scope mounts?
Lower mounts help maintain a natural cheek weld and reduce parallax issues. However, some air rifles may require higher mounts to clear the magazine or barrel. The key is to mount the scope as low as possible while still maintaining a comfortable sight picture.

*they don’t actually rise, it just appears as if they do but that is a conversation for another time.

If you are looking for a scope to put these new skills to the test click here

Review: Sig Sauer P229 CO2 Blowback Air Pistol – A True-to-Life Powerhouse

If you’re in the market for an air pistol that delivers realism, versatility, and some serious bang for your buck (figuratively, of course), the Sig Sauer P229 CO2 Blowback Air Pistol is here to make your decision easy. This isn’t just another plinker; it’s a finely tuned replica of the real Sig Sauer P229, packed with features that will have enthusiasts, collectors, and hobbyists nodding in approval.

The P229 is fantastically versatile and customisable pistol.

Why the Sig Sauer P229 CO2 Blowback Stands Out

Whether you’re practicing your aim, enjoying some backyard shooting, or just adding a piece of craftsmanship to your collection, the Sig Sauer P229 offers a combination of form and function that’s hard to resist. Here’s a deep dive into its key features and why they’re worth your attention.

Realistic Handling and Blowback Action

One of the biggest draws of the P229 is how closely it mirrors its firearm counterpart. The full metal construction provides a realistic weight and balance, giving you that satisfying heft you’d expect from the real deal. Adding to the authenticity is the blowback action, which cycles the slide with every shot, delivering a recoil impulse that feels like you’re shooting the real thing.

While the recoil isn’t as strong as an actual firearm (understandable, considering it’s powered by CO2), it’s strong enough to elevate your shooting experience beyond the usual air pistol offerings. This feature alone makes the P229 a favourite for anyone looking to train in a realistic way without heading to the range.

The P229 features a great blowback system

Dual Ammo Capability: Versatility at Its Best

Why settle for just one ammo type when you can have both? The P229 fires .177 calibre lead pellets as well as steel BBs, making it a versatile choice for different shooting styles. Whether you’re aiming for precision with pellets or just want some quick fun with BBs, this air pistol has you covered.

While some air pistols excel with only one type of ammunition, the P229’s ability to handle both gives it an edge. This dual capability means you’re essentially getting two air pistols in one—talk about value for money.

Tool-Free CO2 Reloading

Here’s a feature that makes life a whole lot easier: the patented cam-lever CO2 loading system. Swapping out cartridges is so quick and intuitive that you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. No tools, no fumbling, no wasted time. In fact, it’s so user-friendly that you can reload with one hand.

If you’ve ever struggled with CO2 cartridges in other air pistols, you’ll appreciate this innovation. While some might wish the cartridges lasted longer (a typical issue with CO2 guns), the ease of reloading more than makes up for it.

Optics-Ready for Enhanced Accuracy

Want to take your accuracy to the next level? The P229 features an optics-ready slide, compatible with many red dot sights. Adding a red dot sight not only sharpens your aim but also speeds up target acquisition, making this air pistol an excellent choice for those who take their shooting seriously.

Although the reflex sight is an additional cost, the fact that the P229 is ready to accommodate it out of the box is a big plus. It’s a feature you won’t find on many competitors, especially at this price point.

Packed with Premium Features

The P229 doesn’t just look good—it’s designed to perform. Here are some standout details that make it worth your consideration:

A rifled steel barrel ensures accuracy with lead pellets, while the threaded muzzle and knurled thread protector add versatility for potential muzzle attachments.
White dot combat sights provide excellent visibility, even in lower-light conditions.
A functional decocker and DA/SA trigger system replicate the real firearm’s mechanics, adding to its authenticity.

All these little touches come together to create a shooting experience that’s as close to the real thing as you can get without live ammunition.

A Few Downsides (and Why They’re Not Dealbreakers)

No product is perfect, and the P229 has a couple of minor shortcomings. For one, CO2 usage could be more efficient; you’ll go through cartridges fairly quickly during extended shooting sessions. However, given how easy it is to reload, this is more of an inconvenience than a major issue.

Additionally, the optics-ready slide might tempt you to spend more on accessories like a Reflex Sight. While this could stretch your budget, the ability to customize and improve accuracy is a clear upside.

The Verdict

The Sig Sauer P229 CO2 Blowback Air Pistol isn’t just an air gun—it’s an experience. From its realistic design and handling to its versatility and innovative features, it checks all the right boxes for anyone looking for quality and fun in their shooting sessions.

While CO2 usage and the temptation to accessorize could be seen as minor downsides, they’re far outweighed by the pistol’s overall performance and value. For anyone serious about air pistols, the P229 is a must-have addition to your collection.

If you’re ready to elevate your shooting game, the Sig Sauer P229 is waiting to become your new favourite sidekick.

Cybergun Desert Eagle Review: Big, Bold, and Tons of Fun

If you’re into iconic guns, the Cybergun Desert Eagle .50AE air pistol is a replica that’s hard to resist. This CO₂-powered BB gun delivers a fantastic blend of power, accuracy, and pure presence that makes it stand out. Plus, with its legendary design and blowback mechanism, it doesn’t just look the part—it feels it, too. Let’s dive into what makes this air pistol a top choice for both collectors and shooting enthusiasts.

Looks and Build: A Hollywood Star in Your Hands

The Cybergun Desert Eagle is an absolute showstopper. Modeled after the Magnum Research Desert Eagle .50AE, this air pistol has all the muscle and charisma of its famous big brother. The first time you hold it, you’ll notice the impressive weight (at 1.1 kg, this isn’t a featherweight by any means). But that heft is part of its charm—this thing feels real. The tough ABS polymer construction, combined with a metal slide, gives it durability without compromising on looks.

The design is instantly recognizable. Fans of movies and video games will love that this is the same Desert Eagle that’s made cameo appearances in countless action scenes. It’s chunky, it’s bold, and let’s face it—it just looks cool.

Performance: All the Fun, None of the Bruises

One of the best features of the Cybergun Desert Eagle is the CO₂ blowback system. Every time you pull the trigger, you get a satisfying kick from the blowback that feels pretty close to the real thing. No, it won’t knock you back, but it does add that authentic recoil for a more immersive shooting experience. Plus, the 15-round magazine allows for a good amount of shooting before needing to reload, which is great for target practice sessions.

The pistol fires 4.5mm BBs with a decent level of power and accuracy. It’s not going to stop a bear in its tracks like the real .50AE would, but for plinking cans or casual target practice, it’s incredibly enjoyable. And because it’s air-powered, there’s none of the bruising recoil of the actual .50 calibre Desert Eagle. Your hands will thank you!

Ups and Downs: What You Should Know

Of course, no air pistol is perfect, and the Cybergun Desert Eagle does have a few quirks. For one, its size and weight might not be for everyone. This is a large gun—it’s not the kind of thing you can just slip into a pocket. But let’s be honest: if you’re picking the Desert Eagle, you probably want that oversized feel. It’s part of the appeal, right?

Another thing to keep in mind is that CO₂ mean some ongoing costs if you’re planning on regular use. But here’s the upside: CO₂ provides consistent power, which means smoother shooting and a better experience overall. Plus, each canister lasts a decent amount of shots, so you won’t be running to replace them too often.

Final Thoughts: A Perfect Blend of Power and Style

The Cybergun Desert Eagle is an air pistol for those who want more than just a BB gun—it’s a conversation piece, a mini Hollywood icon, and a genuinely fun shooter all in one. With its blowback action, realistic design, and solid feel, it ticks all the boxes for anyone looking to add a bit of drama to their collection. Whether you’re into movie props, love unique air guns, or just want to impress your friends at the range, this Desert Eagle replica brings serious style and solid performance.

Just remember, this isn’t a subtle little pocket pistol. It’s big, bold, and unapologetically awesome—exactly how a Desert Eagle should be.

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General Licences for Airguns

When it comes to pest control you may have heard the phrase ‘General Licence’ but what does that refer to and what is their purpose? General Licences are issued by Defra (Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs) with the current one valid until 31^st December 2024. You do not need to apply for these licences however you must abide by their conditions by law.

The general licences’ main purpose is for the conservation/welfare of protected species. Although there are many sections to these licences, we are mainly focusing on the GL40 – GL42 which are orientated around the killing/taking of certain wild bird species.

GL40

This licence can be used to kill certain species of wild birds in order to conserve wild birds, flora or fauna if there is no other solution. The main species under this licence that would be of interest to an air gunner would be the Carrion Crow, Jay, and Magpie. All three of these species can be killed if the purpose is to conserve certain species of wild bird that are of conservation concern. These birds cannot be killed for any other reason and if they are either killed or taken unlawfully, can result in a prison sentence of up to 6 months, an unlimited fine and your ability to use this licence in the future being withdrawn.

*UK Carrion Crows can cause substantial environmental damage if left unchecked*

GL41

The aim of this licence is to kill or take certain species of wild birds to preserve public health and/or safety. The main Species of interest would be the Feral Pigeon and the Jackdaw. The 3 listed reasons for the control of these animals are slips and falls, the Spread of human disease and issues with birds nesting. The feral pigeon can be humanely despatched for any one of these 3 reasons however, the Jackdaw can only be controlled for the conservation of birds nesting. Once again, the key thing to remember is that you can only use these methods if there is no other solution to the control of the species mentioned above.

*Feral pigeons can spread all kinds of diseases in the UK*

GL42

The final licence we are looking at is GL42. This licence focuses on Killing / taking the named species of wild birds to prevent damage. When the word ‘damage’ is used it refers to damage to livestock, foodstuffs for livestock, crops, vegetables, fruits, fisheries, and Inland Waters. The main species we are interested in controlling would be Carrion Crow, Feral Pigeon, Jackdaw, Magpie, Rook and the Wood Pigeon. As there are more species covered under this licence, we have included a table to illustrate when GL42 can or cannot be used.

Species	Livestock (Direct attack)	Foodstuffs for Livestock	Crops, fruits and Veg	Fisheries	Inland Waters
Carrion Crow	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	No
Feral Pigeon	No	Yes	Yes	No	No
Jackdaw	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	No
Magpie	Yes	No	No	No	No
Rook	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	No
Wood Pigeon	No	Yes	Yes	No	No

General Licences – Conclusion

If you are looking to use one of the general licences for their intended purposes and have decided an air weapon is the best-suited method to aid you in controlling these listed wild bird species, then we have an array of rifles that would be suitable.

One of OUR best priced kits FOR BIRD CONTROL

Finally, at the higher end of the market, we have our Wildcat Kit. This full-powered spring rifle comes complete with a silencer, 3-9×40 scope, bag, and pellets. They are just under the legal limit, and therefore would be suitable for controlling multiple types of pests. Coming complete with a silencer, the Wildcat kit will be near-silent ensuring you don’t spook any animal when carrying out your pest control. This full kit is built for the specific purpose of controlling pests, comes in at just £179.99.

We have plenty of other rifle kits on our website if none of these takes your fancy and don’t forget we do weekly deliveries to your door. Read more about our delivery service here.