Beginners Guides Archives

Three Great Break-Barrel Air Rifles for Rabbit Shooting this Spring

There’s nothing quite like a delicious, old-fashioned rabbit stew. Just think about tasty root vegetables simmering in a rich gravy with fresh rabbit meat that’s been marinated in sweet cider and seasoned with black pepper and thyme …

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. First of all, we need to catch some rabbits.

The rabbit, formerly known as the coney

The European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) first came to Britain with the Romans, and, just like the Romans, this highly sexed little mammal has made a great impact on our culture. Over the last 2,000 years, there have been hundreds of children’s stories starring high-profile characters such as Peter Rabbit, Little Grey Rabbit, Roger Rabbit, and Bugs Bunny; and hundreds of children have enjoyed owning a rabbit (or bunny) as a pet. In wartime, hundreds of men have clutched a rabbit’s foot (for luck) as they died in battle; and hundreds of country people have feasted on delicious rabbit meat.

A female rabbit gives birth to approximately five kittens at a time, and she’ll produce as many as five litters a year; the gestation period is just 30 days. Rabbits live in complex systems of purpose-built burrows, called warrens, which provide first-class shelter from the weather and from predators. So, with secure housing and a tendency to breed like … well, you know … this evolutionary champion exists in abundance, chomping its way through crops as fast as farmers can plant them.

Rabbits are pests all year long. There are always too many rabbits around, which is a great nuisance to farmers, but a gift to pest controllers and recreational shooters.

Now, rabbit fur is a pretty poor source of insulation, and so these creatures don’t take kindly to cold or wet weather. In extreme conditions, rabbits hide away in their burrows, and you’ll be hard-pressed to spot any at all. However, if you’re out with your gun at a time when bad weather is moving in, rabbits will, in all likelihood, be scurrying about, frantically searching for food and shelter before holing up for the duration of the cold, wet weather.

Be vewy vewy quiet. I’m hunting wabbits!

There are so many superb air rifles on the market, and they all have their plus points. But which of these rifles would you choose to take out hunting?

That’s a loaded question. So, with our sights set on .22 calibre break-barrel rifles (which we recommend for novice shooters), we’ve taken a shot at selecting the three best ones for rabbit shooting, along with some choice pellets.

Here they are, then, in no particular order:

Storm X Deluxe Kit

***Shooting rabbits with a Norica Storm X***

This is Pellpax’s ultimate pest dispatch rifle kit. The Storm X, from Norica, is a powerful air rifle with a muzzle energy of between 11 and 12ft/lb, designed for the dispatch of all small pests, including squirrels, rats, pigeons, and rabbits. This gun’s high power and pin-point accuracy ensure a humane, one-shot kill.

The Storm’s stock, which is made from stained, vaporised beech wood, features ornately textured grips to ensure a secure hold. The adjustable trigger has an automatic safety, and the ventilated butt plate minimises recoil, preventing damage to your shoulder. This beautiful rifle has a barrel length of .454m, a total length of 1.190m, and it weighs 3.2kg.

Rabbits are at their most active at dawn and dusk, and for these low light conditions, you’ll need a good-quality scope with a large lens, which will let in enough light for better contrast and improved vision. So, as well as a super Norica break-barrel rifle, the Storm X Deluxe Kit includes a 3-9×50 scope and scope mounts. The huge zoom range is ideal for hunting rabbits and other pests from a long distance, although we recommend that you shoot from no more than 40m from your target.

The Pellpax Storm X Deluxe Kit includes a .22 calibre air rifle, 3-9×50 scope with scope mounts, a screw-on silencer, padded gun bag, clip-on bipod, and a tin of hunting pellets. It’s a great buy at just £229.99, only from Pellpax.

Walther Classus

With its Lothar Walther barrel and Minelli stock, the ambidextrous Classus really is a smooth operator. Elegant checkering on the forestock and pistol grip ensures a secure grip, and the rubber butt plate absorbs a good deal of the recoil.

The Classus has the same cocking rod as the Walther LGV, as well as the adjustable Walther XT trigger. The action uses a smooth and consistent spring-and-piston system that’s been tuned for low recoil and accurate power levels. The Walther Classus – which is 1.07m long, weighs 3.1kg, and has a muzzle energy of 11.5ft/lb – is available from Pellpax at £369.99.

Now, what about pellets? To complement the Walther Classus, we recommend the 18-grain ProShot Precision Perdere, a hollow-point pellet ideal for hunting and pest control. Upon impact with the target, the hollow-pointed nose drives air back into the centre of the pellet, causing rapid expansion of the pellet, which increases the size of the wound channel. This ensures a quick, clean kill.

These high-quality ProShot Precision Perdere .22 calibre pellets are fantastic value, available from Pellpax at £8.59 for a tin of 250.

Black Ops Tactical Sniper

Great for all shooting disciplines, from pest and vermin control to target shooting and plinking, the Black Ops Tactical Sniper packs a mean punch. With a sturdy, tactical frame and a massive 11.7ft/lb muzzle energy, this great-looking break-barrel airgun comes with a folding bipod and 4×32 scope included in the price. The fully adjustable stock means you can tailor it to suit you for the perfect shot every time.

Another nice feature of the Black Ops is the storage facility concealed in the fake magazine, where you can store pellets. At 1.11m long, with a barrel length of 0.45m, and weighing 4kg, this rifle has an awesome price tag of £171.99.

And pellets? Well, how about the ProShot Precision Magnum, a 17-grain domed pellet with a bit more point than the average dome! This best-of-both-worlds pellet is an all-round performer, suitable for any kind of shooting, and you can pick up a tin of 300 for just £8.99.

… Or there’s the Gamekeeper Long Range Special, a high-quality domed pellet that ensures consistency and accuracy for those long-range shots. These pellets are fantastic value at £8.99 for a tin of 500.

For more information about any of the products featured on the Pellpax website, give us a call on 01263 731 585 to talk to a member of the sales team or to one of our gunsmiths.

And one more thing: If you’d like to send us your rabbit recipes, with a photo, we’d love to share them via social media with Pellpax customers all over the UK! Just drop us an email at [email protected].

British Shooting Show 15th-17th Feb, Birmingham NEC

This year’s British Shooting Show promises to be the jewel in the crown for fans of shooting. It takes on the 15th to 17th Feb, at the NEC in Birmingham.

The huge show is the biggest event of its type in UK and Europe during the calendar, open to both trade and retail attendees.

Huge Range

It takes place over three huge halls, and covers a host of shooting related products and industries, with over 600 retailers, manufacturers, and distributors in attendance.

The range over goods covered is broad and includes shotguns, rifles, pistols, air rifles, airsoft, optics, night vision and thermal imaging equipment, hunting knives, bushcraft, wildfowling, gundogs, gamekeeping hall, country clothing & footwear.

Exhibitors from the airguns industry will include Air Arms, BSA Guns, Daystate, Umarex and Weihrauch. Shotgun exhibitors will include Browning, Eley, Holland & Holland and Boss & Co, and will be joined by many more. Meanwhile, rifle exhibitors include Accuracy International, Mauser, and many more.

Whether you’re an enthusiast or a professional, the show has something to offer. For those intent on shooting abroad, it’s a great opportunity to outfit yourself accordingly, and for farmers, hunters, competitive shooters, and many more people, it’s a great chance to see and get your hands on some of the newest equipment by the finest brands out there.

Demonstration Area

There will be all kinds of special features to the event, including a Demonstration Area, where well known experts will be on hand to discuss and Q & A on a variety of topics.

Professional dog trainer Andy Cullen on hand to answer all your questions on gundog training. Chris Green ‘The Cornish Countryman’ will be on hand to explain wildfowling and decoying, Meanwhile Ralph Skripek ‘The Wild Chef’ will be demonstrating the art of pigeon decoying, and also providing a live cooking demonstration.

With these and other events happening across the Show, there are ample opportunities to browse, learn, and buy, as well as make new friends and connect with shooting professionals.

Tickets start from £18 for a single day advance adult ticket, £36 for 2 days, and £54 for 3 days. Car parking is free, and dogs are not allowed. Tickets can be bought online, or by calling 0844 338 0338.

The British Shooting Show takes place at the NEC Birmingham from 15th to 17th Feb, at the Birmingham NEC. For further details, head to the official site: https://shootingshow.co.uk

Choosing Your Compound Bow

Some of you may have already read our Guide to Choosing Archery Equipment for Pros – even if you have we want to help you with your compound bows too. Despite the mechanical advantage that the cam system provides, a compound bow is still just a tool, and, ultimately, all the power of a shot comes from the archer. The energy in the speeding arrow is transferred from the bow, and the energy stored in the bow is transferred from the archer’s body. Even a ‘powerful’ bow won’t do the work by itself!

What is the Right Draw Weight?

A compound bow reaches its peak draw weight before full draw. This is due to the letting-off mechanism, which releases much of the pressure at the final stage of the draw. So, the peak draw weight occurs before the bow is fully drawn.

A compound bow’s draw weight is usually adjustable within a range of 10 or 15lbs and is adjusted by tightening or loosening the bolts that join the limbs to the riser. A bow that’s advertised as having a 60lbs draw weight can be adjusted to a draw weight of anything between 50lbs (or possibly 45lbs) and 60lbs. If you’re new to archery, don’t try to shoot with too great a draw weight to begin with. Start on the low side; upper body strength will soon build up with practice.

This is a generalised guide to appropriate draw weight:

Children (6-9 years): 10-20 lbs
Children (9-12 years): 20-35 lbs
Teenagers and smaller women: 35-45 lbs
Women: 45-55 lbs
Men: 55-70 lbs

How to Measure Draw Length

Draw length is the distance between the grip (on the riser) and the centre of the string at full draw. Unlike a traditional bow, a compound bow must be drawn to its maximum capacity, and no further. This means that your compound bow must be the correct draw length for you.

To find out your draw length, use this simple formula:

arm span divided by 2.5

Measure your arm span, which is usually equal to your height, and divide by 2.5. If your arm span is 68”, your draw length will be 28” (68/2.5). If your arm span is 73”, your draw length will be 30” (73/2.5). If your arm span is 60”, your draw length will be 24” (60/2.5) … and so on.

The longer the draw length, the longer the power stroke, which equates to higher arrow velocity. In fact, 1” of draw weight is worth about 10 feet per second (FPS) of arrow speed. A bow’s speed is always tested at 30” draw length. So, if your bow’s speed is advertised as 300 FPS, and your draw length is 25”, you can expect to shoot arrows at a maximum velocity of 250 FPS.

What is the Brace Height?

A bow’s brace height is the distance between the deepest part of the riser to the string (at rest). A shorter brace height means a longer draw stroke, which means more stored energy.

The brace height is related to the overall draw length. If your draw length is 26”, and your bow has a brace height of 6”, the distance over which you’re actually pulling (and storing energy in the bow) is 20”. A fellow archer, who has a draw length of 28” and a bow of 8” brace height, will also be pulling over a distance of 20”.

Because the other chap’s arrow remains in contact with the bow for longer, his arrow will have more stability. If your bow has a brace height of 8”, your pulling distance will be 18”, and your arrows will be more stable … and they’ll be slightly slower.

Choose Wisely

Does speed really matter?

Yes, of course it does, to a point. But don’t let a desire for speed take priority over comfort, accuracy, and safety. Go with your correct draw length. A slight loss of speed is insignificant when compared to the consistent accuracy that can be achieved with a well-suited bow.

Take a look at our range of Compound Bows here from manufacturers such as Ek Archery and Barnett.

For more information about archery equipment, phone 01263 731 585 and speak to James, our in-house expert.

Alternatively, talk to James on Live Chat at https://www.pellpax.co.uk/

How to Zero a Scope

It’s all about you

Remember that you are zeroing your air rifle scope for you. If possible, carry out this task over a distance that you normally shoot; use your usual pellets; and focus the lens to suit you. It’s important to zero your scope in windless conditions.

Setting up

Place your target against a secure backstop. Using a steady and comfortable rest – to eliminate as much human error as possible – fire three to five pellets, aiming for the centre of the target. Hopefully, your shots will be in a cluster; if they’re very spread out, try again.

Adjusting the scope dials

There are two adjustments to make: windage (left/right), controlled by the dial on top of the scope, and elevation (up/down), controlled by the dial on the right flank of the scope. Work on one at a time.

Printed on the dials will be instructions. There might be, for example, an arrow indicating clockwise, with the word ‘left’, or an arrow indicating counter-clockwise, with the word ‘up’. There will also be a guide to the increments of adjustment – for example, ‘1 click ¼” 100 yards’. This means that at a distance of 100 yards, each click in a counter-clockwise direction will adjust your sight ¼” upward … or that at 100 yards, each click in a counter-clockwise direction will adjust your sight ¼” to the right.

A shooting scenario …

So, let’s say you’re shooting at 25 yards, and your pellets have landed approximately two inches below the centre of your target. If one click of the elevation dial in a counter-clockwise direction will adjust your sight ¼” upwards over a distance of 100 yards, then at 25 yards, one click will make an adjustment of 1/16”. You’re two inches out, so you need to turn your dial 32 clicks in a counter-clockwise direction.

Once you’ve done this, take a few more shots. If your pellets are landing on a horizonal line with the target, you’re there on the elevation front. If you’re still shooting too low, or too high, repeat the process.

Now, imagine that your shots are landing about ½” to the right of the target. At 100 yards, one click of the windage dial in a clockwise direction will steer your aim ¼” to the left. At 25 yards, one click will make an adjustment of 1/16”. You’re ½” to the right of the target, so you must turn your dial eight clicks clockwise.

Again, repeat this process until you are consistently hitting the target. Be sure to maintain consistent conditions and not to introduce any other variables, such as an alternative rifle rest or a different type or brand of pellet. And always shoots groups of at least three pellets.

Fletching Your Arrows

What is Fletching?

Near to the rear of an arrow, there are three feathers or plastic vanes – two of one colour, and the other in a contrasting colour – collectively called the fletching. The purpose of the fletching is stability. When all is going to plan, and the arrow is flying in a perfectly straight line, the fletches will slice through the air without changing the course of the arrow. If, on the other hand, the arrow is wobbling, and its tail is not perfectly following its tip, it will be brought back into line and stabilised, due to friction between the fletching and the air.

For centuries, fletching was made of feathers – after all, they’re nature’s own design, and they obviously work. Despite enormous leaps forward in technological design, feathers are still contenders in a ‘Who’s best?’ contest. In fact, even the new kid on the block, the compound bow, is sometimes spotted shooting arrows with feather fletching.

Understanding the Structure of a Flight

The rigid structure of interlocking barbs and hooks in a primary flight feather is due to a protein called keratin, which allows the feather to retain its shape when wet. Although the right kind of feather will not be ruined by getting wet, it will, nevertheless, be heavier with the added weight of water. But if you’re set on using feather fletching, you can use a waterproofing powder, designed specifically for this purpose.

The rough, latticed surface of a natural feather is second to none when it comes to creating friction with air, and this is a big attribute when it comes to stabilisation. And despite amazing advancements in the science of synthetic materials, no plastic vane is anywhere near as lightweight as a feather.

If you want to learn more about the things to look for when buying archery items, check out our Buyers Guide to Archery for Newbies, or the Buyers Guide to Archery for Pros.

Feather versus Plastic

However, the most popular choice of fletching for today’s archer is the inexpensive, durable, waterproof plastic vane. Available in a seemingly endless range of colour and size, these soft, flexible vanes can be easily applied in whichever formation you prefer. Even after a fair amount of rough treatment, they’ll pop back into shape; and if they become really warped, you can usually get them back into shape with a bit of heat treatment – a hair drier is the best thing to use.

If you choose plastic vane fletching, you must also make a decision about the angle (or turn) of the fletch on the arrow shaft. Will your priority be speed, or accuracy? Will your choice be restricted by the design of your bow?

A straight fletch is affixed to the shaft in a perfectly straight position, running parallel with the shaft itself. The vane slices through the air, causing minimal friction, and therefore no loss of speed. However, because straight fletching prevents the arrow from spinning, the arrow can become unstable and less able to right itself. This disadvantage becomes more significant the further you have to shoot.

The helical fletch is attached to the arrow’s shaft at an angle, and the fletch itself is also curved, creating maximum wind resistance, and therefore plenty of spin. This spin will help to stabilise your arrow in the same way that a pellet is stabilised by the rifling effect of an airgun. Stability, of course, leads to improved accuracy, but the large amount of friction that causes this fast spin will slow your arrow down.

Which Flies Better – Helical or Straight?

The helical formation is really the only option for feather fletching, as it’s just about impossible to force the naturally curved feather into a straight line. Helical fletching is also ideal for bows of low draw weight. With less speed, there is less stability, so the more spin you can get, the better.

But is there a middle road between the straight and the helical fletch? Yes, there is! It’s the offset fletch.

The offset fletch is straight, but it’s turned at an angle on the arrow shaft. This is an effective solution in cases where the arrow rest doesn’t provide enough clearance for helical fletching to pass through. Contact between the arrow rest and the fletching will compromise speed and stability.

In the case of helical or offset fletching, which way should the arrow spin? The answer is, in general, clockwise – to the right, as you look at the arrow from the nock. It’s all to do with the thread of the tip. When the arrow enters the target counter-clockwise, the tip will unscrew; when it goes in clockwise, it will tighten.

To ensure a clockwise spin, make sure that the upper end of the fletch (the end closest to the tip) is offset to the right as you look down on the arrow from the nock end.

Does Size Matter?

Now, what about size? Does it matter? Well, yes, it does.

When shooting over long distances – 100 meters or more – you’ll do well to use fletches of at least 4” long. The further your arrow travels, the more vulnerable it is to instability. Therefore, every bit of surface area in your fletching will count. Whether you choose to use straight, offset, or helical fletching will depend on other variables in your equipment and environment.

Check out our wide range of arrows and bolts, or you can have a read of How to Become a Competitive Archer on our blog

Weihrauch vs Hatsan

When it comes to Weihrauch and Hatsan, there are many similarities that can be drawn between the two companies in their products ranges. These include the fact thats they both produce spring-powered air rifles, as well as pre-charged pneumatic air rifles, as well as spring and PCP pistols in all the common calibres. All their items are usually imported below the legal limits, which are 12 ft/lbs for a rifle, and 6 ft/lbs for a pistol, although the rifles are usually available in FAC levels if you have the right licence.

Both companies produce their products mainly for sporting purposes, such as target shooting, hunting, and pest control, so deciding which one is best for you can often be a tricky task. Weihrauch’s and Hatsan’s products are both in similar price ranges, which doesn’t help make the decision any simpler, but hopefully this blog will help you make the right choice.

Let’s start off by talking about Weihrauch

Weihrauch are one of the oldest players in the airgun game. Founded in 1899 as firearms manufacturers, they even produced the first German .22 rimfire rifle. However, the company ran into trouble after World War 2 when the Allies put Germany on the naughty step and banned the production of firearms, forcing Weihrauch to put their years of research into creating the finest sporting airguns.

However, instead of sinking, Weihrauch thrived, and many of the designs they produced formed the basis of the modern spring-powered air rifle. The company has gone from strength to strength ever since.

What can you expect from a Weihrauch?

Well, their rifles are among some of the most reliable in the business, and we have many customers who still possess rifles they bought in the ’70s and still swear by them, despite the myriad of newer options available. The rifles themselves still carry an air of tradition, and feature solid wood stocks with minimal bells and whistles – just a well-made gun with a good barrel and all-round performance. This may be a turnoff for some, and another complaint that’s logged against Weihrauch guns is that they’re often heavy, with high cocking effort and clunky triggers; the whole thing feels mechanical and is operated as such.

I think this is maybe a little harsh though. Yes, the weight is higher than some other brands (an un-scoped HW97 weighs upwards of 4kg), but the cocking effort is nothing 99% of shooters can’t handle. I quite like the overall weight and feel of Weihrauch rifles; everything feels solid and built to last, and most importantly, powerful and accurate.

See more of the Weihrauch range of airguns here

The new(er) kids on the block

Hatsan were founded in 1976 and first started off manufacturing shotguns directed at sport shooters, with great success. They’ve now translated that knowledge of sporting competition to provide a range of airguns that are just as effective in shooting competitions. The rifles themselves are made in Turkey, which mirrors the company as an up-and-coming economic powerhouse that has risen rapidly upwards in terms of reputation and quality, and now stands firmly amongst the world’s elite.

The rifles themselves are modern and ergonomically designed with rubber inserts, thumbhole designs, and a wide variety of synthetic stock options. Another good thing about the brand is that they often come with silencers attached, and with front sights on the silencer; this means that you no longer have to choose between the two. Hatsan rifles also represent incredible value for money, with many coming with bipod, carrying straps, and other accessories for no added cost, and they also add extras like adjustable cheek pieces and inbuilt swivel studs to a lot of their models.

Two of the best

Let me preface this by saying that spring rifles are my bread and butter. There are also various PCP options out there for both brands, which may be subjectively better than these rifles. But not to be tied down with external gas canisters suits me best. So here are my two picks:

Weihrauch HW77K

The HW77 was Weihrauch’s first rifle that loaded directly into the breech of the barrel, as opposed to a loading tap, which reduced the power, but greatly increased accuracy. This has made the 77 extremely popular in countries with strict power limits, like the UK and Germany.

This K or carbine version of the 77 also decreases the weight to make the rifle more manageable and easier to aim, whilst a raised cheekpiece and sculpted butt-pad make the rifle a nice fit into the shoulder. The gun itself is also equipped with a front sight, but I would make use of the long rail mounted across the top of the rifle, and get a good quality scope.

The gun is exceptionally accurate and shoots well in the field, but where the gun really shines is when shot down the range. The underlever makes bench shooting a little awkward, but the high accuracy and predictable shot placement are winners in my book.

Hatsan Dominator

The Dominator is round about the same price as the HW77 and also uses an underlever cocking mechanism. However, that is about where the similarities end. Instead of a wooden stock, the Dominator uses a synthetic polymer that is over-moulded with rubber for resistance to shocks and knocks. This also has the added effect of eliminating that horrible texture that some synthetic stocks have, where they feel like cheap car dashboards. Despite my usual preference for a wood stock, actually the Dominator started to win me over.

Another nice touch is the stock’s raised cheekpiece, and actually this rifle comes with a wide range of accessories – swivels studs, fibre-optic sights, bipod, strap, and muzzle break … to name a few. This rifle also features a top-mounted rail for optics, and the quattro trigger system is great.

I’d recommend this rifle for field work, especially as the rubber on the stock stays grippy in the wet or through gloves, whilst the rifle’s lighter weight means it can be carried long distances. You even get a strap included!

See more of the Hatsan airgun range here

Conclusions

I hope this has given some insight into the two brands and given some ideas as to what rifle you may want to pick.

If I had to choose one, the Weihrauch wins for me every time; but actually, after initially dismissing them, the Hatsan rifles were well made, well priced for what you get, and I could see their appeal.

What is an Air Gun?

Many of you will think of an air gun as anything that fires a projectile from a smooth-bore or rifled barrel using the power of air.

This is the standard definition that can be found across the internet. But air guns are so much more than that today, as some use compressed air, others CO₂ gas, and some a spring and piston, which still all come under the umbrella of air guns. As a rule of thumb, the term air gun is generally used to refer to any type of gun that uses compressed gas as the propellant, as opposed to burning powder, as in rifles and shotguns. And you should always consider the right air gun pellet for your needs as well.

Spring Power

Probably one of the oldest air gun mechanisms to still be around today is the spring-and-piston type, with the first examples of their existence going back to the late 1800s.

The principle of a spring-powered air rifle is that a spring is cocked by means of a lever; it’s often the barrel that doubles for this job, but some guns are a side- or underlever type, which allows the barrel to be fixed in place. This lever then compresses the spring, which has a piston in front of it, with a washer on the front. This washer used to be made from leather, but today they tend to be made from plastic. This washer creates a near air-tight seal, so that when the spring’s tension is released, the piston compresses the air in front of it, which is then forced through a port into the barrel, propelling the projectile forward.

The Stinger Starter UL Tactical Kit is a great spring rifle for target shooting and plinking.

As this mechanism has very few moving parts, it’s probably the most reliable type of air gun, especially as so many models from nearly 100 years ago are still working flawlessly today!

One slight downside of this system is that the spring wears over time, causing power loss, but a gunsmith can easily replace the spring to get the power back up to where it should be. Spring air rifles come in a wide range of prices from choices such as the Stinger UL Tactical Starter Kit .22, right up to the top-of-the-range, state-of-the-art Air Arms Pro-Sport Walnut Stock .177, which offers some of the best accuracy and consistency straight out of the box.

Choose from the best Spring Powered airgun brands

Gas Ram

An upgrade on the standard spring airgun is the gas ram system, which is very similar in its principles to a spring air rifle, except the spring is replaced with a gas strut. For those of you who can’t picture a gas strut, it’s basically a larger version of what holds a car boot open. The gas strut doesn’t suffer the same downfalls as a spring does, such as spring fatigue, meaning that the power stays the same for longer. The gas strut also offers better shot-to-shot consistency, as the compression of the gas is more consistent and accurate than that of a spring would be. Again, prices vary in the gas ram range, from the e Webley VMX D-Ram .22 – Black Synthetic, right up to the Weihrauch HW90K .177.

Choose from the best Gas Ram powered airguns

CO2 Powered

The next step up from spring and gas ram air rifles are CO2-powered rifles, which use either the small 12g capsules, or the larger 88g cylinders. Both are filled with compressed CO2, and once loaded into the rifle, the gas flows through a valve, eventually being released into the barrel to propel the pellet when the trigger is pulled and the hammer strikes the valve. This system is completely recoil-less, so it’s a lot easier to get better accuracy with one of these rifles straight out of the box.

CO2 does have its disadvantages though, as it’s very dependent on temperature, so it’ll be a bit more powerful on a warm day, but less powerful on a cold day. Spring and gas ram don’t experience this fluctuation by comparison. CO2 are a lot quieter though, as they don’t have much internal movement going on, so with a suppressor fitted, they are close to silent.

Choices start from the Rat Sniper .22 CO2 Air Rifle, which is a great rifle for those looking for a bit of target shooting and light pest control, up to the all-bells-and-whistles Umarex 850 Air Magnum XT .22 Deluxe Kit, which offers multi-shot, full-power shooting.

Choose from the best CO2 powered airguns

PCP Powered

The Zbroia Hortisia Bolt Action PCP Rifle is an excellent starting point

PCP (pre-charged pneumatic) rifles are the next step up from CO2 and offer the best in accuracy and consistency out of all the airgun types currently on the market.

PCP rifles use high pressure air – some running at pressures of up to 300 BAR – to propel the pellets along the barrel. The advantage of high-pressure air is that it doesn’t change power as the temperature varies, and is also a lot more stable than CO2, giving much better results when firing pellets. The principle is similar to the workings of a CO2 gun, with the air held in a reservoir, which is recharged via a diving cylinder or a stirrup pump. This air is then released into the barrel via a valve, which is struck by a hammer when the trigger is pulled.

PCP rifles are available in all shapes and sizes, with both single-shot and multi-shot actions available.

Some good starting points would be the Zbroia Hortitsia .22 – Black or the Daystate Griffin .177, with prices varying anywhere in between, depending on your budget!

Choose from the best PCP Powered airguns

An airgun is not just a gun that uses air to fire pellets. It’s much more than that today, with some top-end rifles even utilizing electronic actions to fire the pellets! There are still many new advances to come, but I hope this blog post has helped explain some of the different types.

High Powered Air Rifles for under £200

In these times of Brexit and Trump, it seems everyone’s looking for a good deal. So I’m here to shed light on some of the best that cheap air rifles have to offer. Now, just 60 years ago, £200 would buy you a brand-new car, but cars are not necessarily the most efficient tool for pest control. So let’s see what high-powered airguns we can get for the same price. And you should always factor in the importance of choosing the correct air gun pellet too.

Hunting For Value: Remington Express XP

If you’re looking for value, you can’t do better than the Remington Express XP. It’s not just one of the cheapest spring rifles, but it’s one of the cheapest airguns, period. The express is only available in .177, but it will shoot 11.5ft/lbs plus, making it just as effective as many other more expensive guns on the market.

The finish on the rifle is also surprisingly refined, considering the price, and the hardwood stock (read ‘not beech’) is suitably shaped and well stained. The rifle also weighs under 3kg, making it lighter than some other similarly priced spring rifles. The trigger of the Remington, in particular, is nice and wide, and whilst there’s a little creep, the pull weight seems perfectly set to achieve a predictable let-off. The Remington is also accurate, with 1/2” groups at 30 yards, using Air Arms Diabolo pellets, and the muzzle report is greatly reduced by the addition of a silencer.

This rifle, however, is not as quiet as a CO2 or PCP rifle, as the main noise of a spring rifle comes from inside the rifle itself. Also, the silencer is moulded to the front of the rifle, eliminating the possibility of front sights. Now, the rifle does come with a 3-9×32 scope, but it’s always nice to have the option.
All in all, a great rifle that’s limited by its lack of options, such as calibre choice and sight options.

Summary:
+ Great finish
+ Accurate
+ Brilliant Trigger
+ Comes with Scope

– Silencer is Fixed
– .177 Only
– Still Quite Loud

Lightweight and Reliable: Webley VMX

Next up is rifle that has had a couple of re-brands over the years, the Webley ValueMax, now known as the VMX has been a popular choice amongst airgunners looking to get more bang for their buck.

Slightly less powerful than the Express XP, the VMX none the less shoots at around 11.3ft/lbs which is more than enough to deal with either feathers or fur. The VMX features a Powr Lok mainspring that delivers consistent power and smooth delivery although the two stage trigger could be of higher quality.

The VMX also features fibre optic sights and can be fitted with a scope because of the rifles top mounted rail. The VMX also features an automatic safety, but is not possible to de-cock the rifle without firing so always ensure you have a target first, something that is good practice anyway.

The synthetic stock is OK I guess, but I’ve never liked the feel of most of them, they remind me of the texture of a cheap car dashboard, but they are light and I guess for £120 I cant exactly expect walnut can I? The shape is good however and the rifle is comfortable to shoulder for both left and right handed shooters.

The rifle is maybe not the nicest to look at or shoulder, but it shoots like a dream and for under £120 you can’t really have many complaints can you?

Summary

+ Smooth Action
+ Fibre Optic Sights
+ Under £120!!!
+ Auto Safety

– Ugly Synthetic Stock
– Moderate Trigger Creep
– No Way to Decock

A Man’s Gun: SMK XS38

The Chinese have, in recent years, shaken off their reputation for the cheap and the nasty, and instead are now famous for making some of the most reliable air rifles that money can buy.

Continuing in that tradition, the XS38 is a full-sized, full-power airgun, which, instead of a break-barrel system, utilises an underlever to cock. This reduces wear and increases accuracy by ensuring the barrel never moves throughout the firing process. The rifle is fitted with a scope rail as well as fibre-optic sights, which aid hunting in low light.

The rifle itself is somewhat heavy, weighing in at nearly 4kg, and under-leavers are notorious for having all their weight at the front – something that will take a bit of getting used to. The rifle does have a fair bit of kick, though this is counteracted with a generously sized recoil pad.

The trigger of the XS is somewhat unrefined and is a single stage, leading to a little unpredictability, and the break-barrel action is a little stiff, so you’re in for a workout if you’re going to be doing a lot of shooting with it. It was the most powerful of all the rifles I tested, clocking in at 11.8ft/lbs, ideal for pests.

The XS38 is definitely excellent value, but it’s very front heavy and a bit cumbersome to aim. The gun does, however, pack a real punch, and it’s accurate enough for targets or pests.

Summary

+ Under lever
+ Fibre Optic Sights
+ Great Finish
+ High Power

– Unpredictable Trigger
– Heavy
– Tough to Cock

[This silencer is not removable]

Built to Last: BSA Meteor EVO Silentium

The BSA Meteor Silentium was originally introduced in 1955, over half a century ago, and we are now on our 7th iteration of this famous gun. BSA, and now Gamo, who took over in 1986, have always adopted an “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” approach to the Meteor, and consequently have ended up with a rifle that’s very old fashioned, not to mention underpowered. It’s really only suited for purists of the brand, looking to reclaim a bit of the past.

Now, however, they introduce the Meteor EVO, a version of their classic rifle that has been given a firm boot into the 21st century. First thing to note is the power: upped from the original’s 8ft/lb, the EVO features a brand-new spring-and-valves system that will produce around 11ft/lbs of muzzle energy, just under the legal limit.

The EVO, much like its predecessor, is a rifle that’s built to last, something that continues to impress me about the brand. The finish of the EVO is also really good, with chequering on the stock and a thick rubber recoil pad. Testing the gun out, 4.52 Air Arms field pellets gave tight groupings at 30 yards, and I’m sure that, with a bit of experimentation with pellets, this could be improved further.

Also, unlike some previous BSA models, like the Lightning and the Supersport, the Meteor features a barrel fulcrum that consists of a threaded screw instead of a pin, which eliminates the lateral barrel movement that has given this brand a bit of a bad rep in recent years.

The only real complaint I have is that the gun is still pretty loud – and yes, I know all spring rifles have a similar problem, but don’t call your gun a Silentium if it gives away my position to everyone within a mile radius. Also, this silencer can’t be removed and replaced with a more effective one, or one that doesn’t look like a giant piece of plastic. Oh well…

The BSA carries a lot of heritage. It also shoots well … even if it’s a little loud and cumbersome to aim.

Summary
+ Great Build Quality
+ Well Designed Stock
+ High Power
+ Accurate

– Quite Loud
– Can’t Remove Silencer
– Front Heavy

Best Gamo Ever: Gamo Whisper X

The Gamo Whisper X has been billed as “the best Gamo ever”, and while that doesn’t mean much to some people, the Whisper X does shake off some of
the baggage that’s been attached to the Gamo name. Normally known for having a heavy trigger, the Whisper is surprisingly light and responsive, and I found myself growing to like it more with each shot. The accuracy was again pretty good, inside a penny at 30 yards. Nothing to complain about here.

Another thing Gamo rifles were famous for was the “twang” noise the spring made when fired. Now, I don’t know if they use a different manufacturer for their springs now, but that noise was absent, instead being replaced with a more pleasant thud sound. The recoil level of this rifle was also way below what I expected in the shoulder, with the skeleton stock absorbing a large part of it. However, the kick is still larger than most air rifles, and I wonder if this may cause damage to the gun in the long run.

About that stock: it’s not exactly my cup of tea. I have to say I prefer a classic sporter-shaped wood stock, as opposed to the Whisper X’s unusual styling. At least it doesn’t look like a Kral Breaker … Having said that, looks are subjective; one man’s trash is another man’s treasure, blah blah blah … Really, if you’re hitting groups as tight as the X does, how it looks pales into insignificance.

The X was perhaps the gun I was most sceptical about before shooting, and yet it was the one that grew on me the most.

Gamo Whisper X

The Gamo has an unusual thumbhole design

+ High Accuracy
+ Light
+ Comfortable
+ Improved noise…

– … but not exactly Whisper Quiet
– Fixed Silencer
– Polarising looks

The Gamo has an unusual thumbhole design

And the Winner is …

In conclusion, I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by this range of rifles. The build quality is about what you would expect, but the performance far exceeded my expectations. With the exception of one, all were over 11.5ft/lbs, and all were accurate enough to be used for either pest control or target shooting at ranges up to, and including, 30 metres. If I had to pick a winner, I’d probably go for the Remington. Yes, it is a bit rough around the edges, but that trigger is great and makes the gun a joy to shoot. I would have liked the option of front sights, such as on the non-XP model, but this gun is a great choice for target shooters and hunters alike.

The overall standard of the guns was actually very good. Manufacturers have been competing with each other for decades now to try and get their rifles to be the most affordable, and there’s now more choice than ever. Whereas 30 years ago buying a cheap airgun was really scraping the bottom of the barrel, nowadays the bar has been raised so high that you can find a great airgun, regardless of your budget, so long as you’re prepared to compromise.

Pistol Pest Control

There is no doubt that summer is prime season for pests but it is by no means the only time that pests are around so you need to be vigilant. Rats, unlike many other mammals, do not typically hibernate during winter and as the temperatures drop, they are more likely to be looking to move inside looking for warmth and shelter. This means that they will appear inside barns and garages where range is not so much a factor as manoeuvrability and ease of use.

When choosing a hunting pistol it is important to ensure that you have a pistol that shoots as close to the 6 ft/lb legal limit as possible. Careful consideration must be paid to ensure quick dispatching and the more powerful the gun, the more stopping power the pellet has. A 2-3 ft/lb 1911 is just not going to do the job humanely or otherwise.

There are two main airguns gun calibres .177 and .22. There are others but they are either too heavy for 6ft/lb guns and often more difficult to get hold of. So what is better .177 or .22? Sigh… this is an argument as old as time but here goes :

Relative size of the 2 most common calibres.

Well, .22 is often cited as the “hunting calibre” but, with the right shaped pellets, .177 can be just as effective. Due to power being worked out as a relationship between weight and speed the lighter pellets of the .177 calibre actually fly much faster than their heavier counterparts. This becomes an advantage as their trajectory is much flatter and therefore it is easier to be accurate. Hitting the head or vitals of a rat or small bird means shooting an area the size of a pound coin and so I actually prefer .177 for pistol pest control. As .177 pellets are travelling faster domed or pointed pellets have a habit of passing though the target which not only reduces lethality but can be problematic if shooting without a clear backstop. For this reason I would recommend flat head or hollow points for .177 and domed pellets for .22. That is my case for using .177 calibre anyway, but I have plenty of friends that swear by .22 especially for furry animals such as rats and rabbits which tend to be quite tough.

At the end of the day every hunter will tell you that accuracy is the most important factor when it comes to humane dispatching, you are often aiming for an area no larger than a pound coin so as long as you can reliably hit that, you will be fine. Just pick whichever calibre you prefer, it IS that simple. With that in mind, perhaps the most important aspect of pest control is practice, reliably hitting the same spot with a rifle is hard enough, but with a pistol it will require hours and hours of hard work until it is in your muscle memory. There are some people that will tell you that you hunting with an air pistol is inherently impossible to do humanely but I disagree, reliable expansion occurs at around 4ft/lbs, even less in hollow points, and a pellet that is fired from 6ft/lb air pistol will have this level of energy at ranges of around 15m.

Which Type of Air Pistol?

So you have your calibre, now what to choose, spring? CO2? Gas Ram? PCP? Single stroke? At least there was only 2 calibres to choose from…

Well, using my uncanny ability to treat my own opinions as fact, I’m going to trim the list down a bit. PCP pistols are undoubtedly effective but you are talking minimum 700 English pounds for a good one and that’s without factoring in the dive bottle and hose that you need to have one and that is probably too much money for a couple of rats so, unfortunately, they’re out.

Gas Ram pistols are essentially the same as spring pistols but use a non fatiguing piston system instead of a spring, sounds great right? Well, to my knowledge there are none close to the 6ft/lb limit that we are after so they are also out. Multi Stroke pistols suffer a similar fate with the majority of the models available being under powered with one exception. The Zoraki HP-01 has a variable power system which means that after 3 pumps the pistol will be powerful enough to be used for pest control. This means that having the pistol ready to shoot as by the time you have pumped the pistol up to full power, the rat or bird will likely be gone.

So that leaves us two viable options CO2 and spring power. As they are the most popular, let’s talk CO2 first.

CO2 pistols

There are a wide variety of CO2 powered pistols available that come in all shapes and sizes but for the majority, there are only a couple that are capable of killing. And the majority are based on one tried and tested design. The originator of the full powered air pistol is a model called the Crosman 2240 Buster which utilised an ingenious bolt action design that was powered by a single 12g CO2 capsule that produced around 5.5ft/lbs of muzzle energy. The 2240 stood as the undisputed king of the pest control world for a long time until a new design came along and took its crown.

The SMK CP1 has refined and ungraded the 2240s original blueprint and has become not just one of the best selling pest control pistols, but also one of the best selling airguns currently on the market. What makes it so effective is not just the power, but also the refinements made to the gun, the bolt has been moved to the left side to allow easier cocking, there is a chequered wood stock instead of the 2240s polymer and both the trigger unit and iron sights have received a significant upgrade. The CP1 also features a dovetail rail for the fitting of external optics and comes in a wide variety of calibres for maximum versatility, there is even a multi-shot version available. When looking for a pest dispatching pistol it is very hard to look past this model.

See more CO2 air pistols

Spring Powered Pistols

Spring powered pistols generally utilise a break barrel or lever system to fill a chamber with air and then release a spring which rapidly compresses the chamber forcing the pellet out of the barrel. The advantage of this design is that everything you need to fire is right there in your hands, no external gas canisters are required so if you can cock the gun, you can shoot it. This does also mean that unfortunately all spring pistols are single shot but with Gamo bringing out an ingenious multi shot spring rifle, the Maxxim Elite, I would imagine that a multi-shot spring pistol is not too far away.

Perhaps the most famous spring pistol is the XS26, one of the stalwarts of recent years that has continued to sell high numbers since its inception and has formed the basis of a lot of spring powered pistols that followed after it. Most notably was SMK’s own XS32 which not only upped the power slightly but improved the trigger system to make the gun more accurate and more reliable. The XS32 is equipped with fibre optic sights which is a plus as pests tend to be more active in low light, and is also surprisingly lightweight which not only reduces fatigue but also makes aiming easier, important when aiming for a small vital area.

The HW45 is a beautiful piece of construction

Whilst the XS32 is a superb choice, the undisputed king of the spring powered pistol world is the Weihrauch HW45. Despite being several orders of magnitude more expensive than an XS32, particularly if you want the fantastic looking Silver Star model, this is the spring pistol I’d personally have. Of all of the names in the airgun industry, Weihrauch is probably the name you can most trust when it comes to delivering high quality construction and overall great performance. The HW45 is accurate to a tee and shoots a shade over 5 ft/lbs making it one of the most powerful spring pistols on the market and more than enough for a rat or pigeon at 10-15m. The pistol itself does require 13mm mounds to fit additional optics which is unusual but other than that I can’t fault it, one of the best pistols money can buy.

See more spring powered air pistols

So there you have it, a list of a selection of the pistols I would consider to be the best for pest control. If you are looking to purchase one be sure it’s here at Pellpax and stay tuned to the blog for all your airgun information.

Airgun Pellets, what’s the best for me?

So you have your rifle. What’s the first accessory you’re going to need? Well, something to shoot out of it might be an idea; so let’s look at your choice of pellets.

Now, the barrel of any air rifle will contain minute imperfections in both the material and rifling, which can have a large effect over shot placement. What this means is, every airgun will respond differently to pellets and different shooters. For example, I have a TX200 that prefers JSB Exact pellets to anything Air Arms have to offer; so much for brand loyalty.

So a good thing to buy would be a Pellet Sample Pack. This way you can try out a couple of different types of pellet before committing to one, to see not only what your rifle prefers, but what kind is best for what you need.

Everyone has a type

Flathead or Wadcutter :

These pellets are ideal for shooting paper targets, where their flat, circular nose will cut a clean hole through paper, allowing you to see exactly where you’ve hit. This makes them ideal for zeroing in scopes and lasers, as well as for competitions, where competitive scoring must be as accurate as possible.

These pellets do also have some hunting utility, particularly in smaller calibres, as they have a high rate of deformation and expansion upon impact, which leads to larger wound channels and less chance to wound.

Notable Examples : Gamekeeper Rat Dispatcher, Pro-Target Trophy, Apolo Champion.

Hollow Points :

These pellets have an indentation in their nose, which, upon impact, drives air into the centre of the pellet, causing rapid expansion. These pellets are designed for hunting and pest control, and are best used at short to medium range to be most effective. This is because the hollow point in the centre can affect accuracy and cause the pellet to tumble at longer distances.

I would recommend them for anyone thinking of using a pistol for pest control, as the higher level of energy transfer from the pellet can help counteract the pistol’s lower power.

One thing that’s good about hollow points is that, thanks to their high rate of expansion, they’re extremely unlikely to over-penetrate, and, although I would always pay concern to what is behind your target, this will minimise the risk.

Notable Examples :Crosman Piranha Hollowpoint, Bisley Pest Control, H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme.

Pointed : Designed to prioritise accuracy above all other aspects, pointed pellets are created to maximise aerodynamics around the fired pellet to ensure a laser-straight flight path. That’s the theory anyway. However, from my experience, pointed pellets tend to be amongst the most inconsistent.

After some testing, I’ve concluded that it’s down to the way the pellets are manufactured and stored. The pointed pellet works fantastically well only if the point is aligned correctly, and, due to pellets being stored in a tin without much protection, this is the exception and not the rule.

Having said that, my dismissal of pointed pellets has led me to experiment with them less, but I have a couple of friends who swear by Gamekeeper Infiltrators for rabbits, which I am yet to try. So let’s just say I’m waiting to be won over.

Notable Examples : Gamekeeper Infiltrator, Webley Powapell, Apolo Jumbo.

Domed : The classic pellet shape. Domed pellets are by far the most popular shape of pellet and are really a jack of all trades. Their shape leads them to be accurate, with deep penetration and reliable expansion, without excelling in any of those areas.

Honestly, these pellets can do anything pretty well, and if I didn’t have a specific task in mind, these would be the pellets I’d go for. Since they’re the most common type of pellet, there’s a very long list of pellet brands, all with variations in shape, so something is almost guaranteed to suit your shooting style.

One thing to bear in mind with domed pellets is that, more than any other, they offer differing skirt sizes. Now, the skirt is the size of the end of the pellet and effectively equates to how tight the seal is of the pellet inside the barrel. The tighter the seal, the more pressure has to build up behind the pellet for it to be fired, therefore increasing FPS. This skirt size will be represented by an additional .01 when listing the pellets size. For example, .177 pellets which are usually 4.5mm will be listed as 4.50, 4.51, 4.52 etc.

A wider skirt will leave more lead behind inside the barrel. This lead fouling will need to be regularly cleaned to keep your rifle in perfect working order, as large build up can affect both power and accuracy. Also, some magazines, most notably semi-automatic rifles like the Sig Sauer MCX and Beretta CX4, tend to prefer smaller skirted pellets, so I would stick with .50 or .51 if using these rifles.

Notable Examples : ProShot Precision Magnum, Weihrauch Field Target Special, Air Arms Field, JSB Exact Pellets.

What are you made of?

The next important consideration is the material that the pellet is made from. The various qualities of these materials, such as weight and hardness, will play an important role in how the pellet flies through the air and also how the pellet behaves when it impacts the target.

Lead : The first and by far the most popular choice is lead. Lead has been used for ammunition for literally centuries, thanks to its properties of being not only very heavy for its size, but also a relatively common material.

Its weight makes it a great projectile, as a small lead pellet will transfer more energy into the target than a larger pellet made from a lighter material. This means that the pellet is more effective in smaller calibres, and that it’s also less affected by environmental conditions in flight, such as wind.

Lead was also traditionally chosen because of its relative softness. This leads to deformation upon impact, dramatically widening the wound channel and leading to more effective hunting. Nobody likes wounding animals, so the fact that lead dramatically decreases this risk makes it a great choice for hunters.

Lead is not without its downsides, however, and because of its soft nature, the pellet often leaves a small amount of residue inside the barrel. This is an advantage, as it helps lubricate the barrel, but the build-up will start to affect accuracy and will need to be periodically removed – not a particularly hard job, but something to bear in mind.

Lead is also hazardous to the environment and is particularly toxic when it enters river systems. As a result, many places are becoming stricter on its use in ammunition, particularly the use of lead shot, and this is a trend I can see continuing with people’s growing concern over the environment.

Lead pellets are great for almost any task and are perfect for sub 12ft/lb air rifles, where their rapid expansion ensures humane hunting.

Notable Examples : ProShot Precision Heavy, RWS Super Field, H&N Field Target Trophy.

Copper : The military has been using copper jacketed ammunition for over a century, so copper coated pellets are nothing new in the airgun world. But how do they compare to their lead alternatives?

Well, first of all, they provide a handy barrier between the lead and your hands, which is always good, as lead’s not a particularly nice material to ingest. They are also significantly harder than 100% lead pellets, which has two distinct advantages. Firstly, they offer greater penetration, and pointed copper pellets offer some of the deepest penetration of any airgun ammunition.

The harder coating also provides protection against damage, and means that the pellets in the tin are far more uniform. This increases shot-to-shot consistency, and ensures the pellets are all in excellent condition when fired. It’s certain a strong reason to recommend the use of pointed copper pellets, as the problems that lead pellets have with making a reliable point is not present here.

Copper may be far less toxic to animals than lead, but it’s actually far more dangerous to plants. I always remember being taught the best way to kill a tree stump: hammer it full of copper nails. Now, thanks to their great penetration, copper pellets can perform a similar, if largely unwanted, role; so always ensure a safe backstop.

Copper Pellets, I think, are best used in conjunction with high-powered FAC air rifles, where their harder coating and more uniform shape will yield incredibly high accuracy.

Notable Examples : H&N Baracuda Power, Apolo Air Boss Barracuda Copper, Apolo Hollow Point Copper, ProShot Precision Pacifier

Alloy : PBA or Alloy pellets are a fairly new development when it comes to airgun ammunition and are available in quite a limited number of designs.

Alloy pellets have the advantage of being non-toxic and can be safely handled and fired, although I would always ensure a secure backstop. The pellets themselves are often lighter than lead or copper, and consequently can produce higher feet per second. FPS is not necessarily the most important metric when viewed on its own, but it can aid accuracy and give a boost to range.

Alloy pellets do tend to be expensive, however, and I would only recommend them for close range target shooting in 6ft/lb pistols and 12ft/lb rifles, where they will perform very well. Anything more powerful than that, and you’re going to be getting close to the sound barrier (~1125 FPS depending on temperature), something that most airgun pellets are not designed for, and something that will negatively affect your accuracy. The noise they make, however, will be awesome.

Notable Examples : H&N Baracuda Green, Gamo PBA Platinum, H&N Match Green

In Conclusion

Hopefully that clears up some of the jargon surrounding airgun pellets; it can be quite a confusing topic for the uninitiated. I would recommend buying a decent tin of domed lead pellets as they can do pretty much anything well, and then starting out with a sample pack to determine what is best for individual tasks.